88_13

Getting up with sunrise, going back and hit the 36th Temple before breakfast.
Along the very clean Yokonami Skyline, almost no traffic and no body, it feels endless along the cliff, some how very sentimental feeling, and some point I really wanted listen some music, not much thoughts but grabbed by those weird sad feeling, looking at hazy horizon.Endless cliff road, shortly came to the end, seeing very flat Uranouchi bay on right side, heading into inland.
I was looking for a place to have a break, then suddenly a cement factory standing behind the small rice field.
Sky was getting grey and darker, I would better get hurry and reach to the accommodation.
Despite the fact, it is called “business hotel”,  it is more like an apartment, small yet quite high rise for the footprint, typical of Japan.
It soon started rain, room was strong smell of tobacco, turning air condition was even worse. Out side there are high rise motorway and a pond with concrete wall.
I suddenly felt claustrophobic and miserable. I am not in the middle of big city, is this the curse of the cement factory? and fully plastic packaged Bento as a dinner, made my end of the day very very sad.

31.03.2016
36 青龍寺
ビジネスホテルさつき
24km日の出起床、朝飯前に36番を打ちに下る。
交通はほとんど無く誰もいない横浪スカイライン、いつまでも続くかのような崖の道、感傷的な気持ち、何か音楽を聴きたい気がした。特にこれといったことを考えてはいなかったがそんな感情にとらわれて、霞みがかった水平線を見ながら歩く。


永遠のような崖の道はあという間に終わり、反対側の平らな浦ノ内湾を横目に、少し山の中へ、休憩できるところを探していると畑のすぐ裏側にセメント工場が立っていた。
空はだんだんと雲行きが怪しくなり休憩なしで早々と次の宿泊所に向かう。
ビジネスホテルとはいうもののアパート。すぐに雨が激しく降り始める、部屋はタバコの臭い、エアコンを入れると余計にひどい。外は高架の高速道路と、コンクリートに囲まれた池。たちまち閉所感、そして哀れな気持ちを感じた。大都会の中でもないのに、セメント工場の呪いか。
プラスチック、ビニールに包まれた弁当の夕食で、とても悲しい一日の終わり。

88_12

Swiftly walk to the ferry stop, it is almost straight line from the temple 32, but it feels long, longer than the map shows.
Quick snack before on bored, then very short ride to opposite side of the bay. It is warm sunny day, feels like having a nap.
Getting into Tosa city, while having slightly later lunch, I was calculating the speed and distance again and again. I was not sure if I manage to get to the 36th on time.
By the time when I get to the Usa-oohashi (it stands for big bridge) I recognised that I would not make it by 5pm. I decided to enjoy the sunset view.
I am sure that I did not reach to Greece, but small surprise when I get to the hotel, and beautiful end of the day.

30.03.2016
32 禅師峰寺
33 雪蹊寺
34 種間寺
35 清瀧寺
国民宿舎土佐
37,6km

素早く歩く。フェリー乗り場まで32番からはほぼまっすぐ、しかし地図で見るよりなぜか長い。束の間の乗船前に軽く食べ、あっという間に反対側。眠くなるような陽気の中、休まず歩き、土佐市で遅めの昼食。おそらく時間内に36番まで納経できないだろうと気づく。山を降り宇佐大橋に来る頃には諦め夕焼けを楽しむことにした。 ギリシャまで歩いていないことは確かだが、思いがけない一日の終わり。

88_11

Getting into Kochi city.
I realise existence of my self, and many other people who are around and not even aware or conscious about each other.
Not only Kochi but other cities in Shikoku feel slightly old, not just buildings, but some how the atmosphere feels like 20 or 30 yeas back, which gives space, and allowance for me to be there with the look of pilgrim. Anachronistic look of the hat but its wonderful in Rain and the sun.

20.03.2016
28 大日寺
29 国分寺
30 善楽寺
31 竹林寺
ベストプライス高知
28km

DSC_0338高知の街に入る、自身の存在と、周りに多くの意識することのない人がいることに気がつく。東京であればことさらであろう。
高知だけでなく四国の街は少し旧い、そこがおおらかさで、違和感を和らげる。うわべだけの革新はすぐに古く、醜くなる。
時代錯誤のように見える帽子だが、雨でも日差しの中でも素晴らしい。

88_10

Starting in rain, walking along the coast, warm strong wind blows sea water from left side.
Holding the hat and lean forward every time the splash comes._DSC1056

However the wind also blew the clouds away.
The sun is coming out, it burs the skin.DSC_0324

Unfortunately Rubbish is common sight along the pilgrimage road.
I started doubt about standard and double side of Japanese morality.
In the afternoon, I saw incredible amount of rubbish along the coast path, It was not only fishing stuff, but all sort of things from household, electric gadgets etc.
Does this come from poverty? as it costs lot to throw those rubbish legitimately, or poverty in their heart. Typically Japanese follows what other do, that is why there are incredible amount in some rather hidden places. In any cases this is malfunctions of our society and our mind. This is dark side and reality of Japan._DSC1057

19.03.2016
かとり
30kmDSC_0323

生暖かい強い風が左側から雨と潮を吹きつける。
傘を支え前かがみでそれをくぐる。_DSC1067

風は雲を吹き払い、ついに太陽が出る。
むせるような湿気と肌を焼く日差し。_DSC1069

遍路道ではよくゴミを見かけ、日本人の二面的、道徳基準に不快感を感じ始める。
午後、海沿いの道、とてつもないほどの不法投棄を目にする。
経済的な貧しさのせいだろうか、粗大ごみを移動しきちんと処理するのにかかるお金のせいか、それとも心の貧しさか。日本人の多くは他人の後に続く、その結果人目のつかぬ一箇所に不法投棄が集まる。
日本の我々の社会と我々の心の機能不全、闇の部分、そして実態である。

88_09

Day after day, walking along the coast, boredom and exhaustion.
Humidity got higher and higher towards to the midday, then eventually pouring rain. It is another discomfort, actually life is full of discomforts. However once the body is filled with those discomforts, I forget all of that. Almost without thinking, I just walked forward. Suddenly encountering some scenes, emotions are released as a bag full of stuff are toned apart. It is something like mix of joy, happiness, and slight sadness.
As the body gets exhausted, my heart gets much more sensitive and moved.

18.03.2016
27 神峯寺
ドライブイン27
31kmDSC_0320

毎日毎日、海沿いを歩く。倦怠と疲労。
湿度が昼に近づくにつれ上がり、ついには雨になる。
また不快感が一つ増える。実際人生は不快なことばかり、ところが体がその不快に包まれてしまうと、そのことを忘れてしまう。何も考えずただ前に行く、突然の情景への出会いで感情があふれ出る、楽しく幸せでどこか少し寂しい。
体が疲れると、心が敏感になり動かされる。

88_08

Slow but Smooth day, along the Cape Muroto.
A day after 45km, hearing the sound of ocean whole night, my mind was fully recharged. On the other hand, my body was heavy as lead, decided to take it easy.
Climbing the mountain in snow, was already feel like long time ago, now the sun is always burning left side of me._DSC1055

When the body gets exhausted, all comes directly to mind.
Amazing feeling of stones and the waves, it takes the heat from my feet and the stones from its underneath. Ocean is incredibly powerful.DSC_0318

17.03.2016
24  最御崎寺
25 津照寺
26 金剛頂寺
民宿うらしま
21km

室戸岬をぐるりと回る、ゆっくりと穏やかな日。
45kmの次の日。海の音を聞きながら寝て、心は十分に回復した、体は鉛のように重たい。
雪降る中での山登りは遥か昔、今は体の左が常に太陽で焼かれている。DSC_0313

体が疲れていると、心に直接伝わる。
石と波が心地よく、ものすごい力強さで、足の熱とその下の石をさらっていく。
明日もまた歩けるだろうか。
DSC_0319

88_07

Very ver very long day. No temples until Cape Muroto, just walk, all day all the way along the coast.DSC_0304

I think it was before lunch, there was an old lady selling Oranges.
she asked me to come and have some oranges, then started pealing next to another, one kind to another kind, and asking me questions. Then she told me that I was not going to find any available accommodation to sleep that night, as there were already many other pilgrims had passed by earlier. She was like Yoda, telling me with cynical smile, to get ready to sleep out side, walk as further as I can.DSC_0306

DSC_0308Around 6pm I managed to get to the accommodation, 45km away from the starting point of the day.
After 40km was incredibly tough, I felt that distance was almost unchanged, as the scenery, just cliff on my right, and the sea on my left.

16.03.2016
民宿椎名
45km

長い長い1日、室戸岬まで寺はなくただひたすら海岸沿いを歩くだけ。DSC_0310
昼前ぐらいだったろうか、みかんを売っている老婆に座って食べていかないかと勧められる。矢継ぎ早に次から次へと品種の違うもの剥いてくれた。その日の宿はどこかと聞かれ、まだ決めていないと言うと。”そうか今日は腹くくって野宿だな。後戻りはできんから先に進むしかないな。” と笑って言われる。DSC_0311
午後6時、出発地点から45kmの民宿にたどり着く。
40kmからその後は、崖を右に海を左に永遠と続くようであった。

88_06

Along the coast, beautiful calm sunny day. As the sun goes up, it gradually burns my skin. My Feet hurt, it almost feels like waking on hot stones.
1,200 years ago, this pilgrimage are shaped up by Kobodaishi, his previous name is Kukai 空海, means sky and sea. It is there right in front of me._DSC1032
DSC_0298Even before Kukai, there were apparently people who were training in this island, along the coast. For the energy coming from lost cities beyond ocean? or from that hanging power cables?
At every temples, I read Heart Sutra, or just skim as light speed some times.
The oldest sanskrit copy of Heart Sutra, apparently remains in Horyuji in Nara Japan.
The one I have with me, was translated in Chinese. Chinese letter placed according to the sound and meaning, and Japanese letter are put along, as Japanese are phonetic.
Kukai went to China and studied. However was he able to read Sanskrit? Actually I can not quite understand nor accept Chinese translation.
When I visited in Shanghai, I saw and tried Coca-Cola. Of course it was written in Chinese. However, because of its red and white stripes I could recognise it. But letters do not exactly sound like Coca-cola, even as a Japanese knowing some Chinese letters, it seems and sounds to me, more like Cacocaco…. How is it possible to imagine and understand from those translated letters, if you don’t know the actual Coca-cola.
It is like singing foreign songs without knowing meaning of lyrics. It may sound happy, but actually it might be sad song.
I think for the language it is very important to understand language itself, also cultural background. Some says for the Sutra, the sound is important. However if you do not understand the language what is the point of writing.
My English is not great. Nevertheless, I do understand and physically know what is good Fish & chips and English breakfast, therefore if I read them I can clearly imagine what it is. That is why Kukai never understood, as he never been to India, spoke Sanskrit, and never ate curry.
_DSC1039I was thinking such indifferent things endlessly while walking. By the time when get to the accommodation I was totally exhausted.
Once I sat in the room, reaching my backpack, which was leaning against opposite side of 9 square meters room, felt almost impossible.
Feeling of walking on Tatami, and evening wind from ocean going through my Yukata was almost taking my exhaustion out from my body.
I had dinner alone at a huge party room. Hijiki (type of sea weed) normally as a small side dish, suddenly became my main dish after a bite. Simply cooked, amazing texture and taste._DSC1045

15.03.2016
23 薬王寺
鯖瀬 海山荘
30kmDSC_0299

海沿い風もなく素晴らしく晴れ、日が昇るにつれ、じりじりと日差しが強くなる、足が痛い、焼け石の上を歩くよう。
千二百年前に弘法大師によって遍路は開かれたらしい。
弘法大師の前の名前は空海、目の前の景色はこれからほとんど空と海。
それ以前にもこの地は多くの修行者が訪れていたらしい。有史以前の古代文明が海の向こうにあったのだろうか。
お寺で一様毎回、般若心経、ハートスートラを読む。
法隆寺には最古のサンスクリット語の写経が残っているらしが、私が読んでいるのはサンスクリットの音をそのまま残して中国語に訳されそして日本語のカナがふられたたもの。空海も中国で仏教を勉強したらしいが。。彼はサスクリット語を読めたのだろうか、そもそも中国語に訳すというのが腑に落ちない。漢字はそれぞれ意味があり音と意味がほぼ同じものにあてがわれたのかもしれないが、でも子供の時に上海で見たコカコーラはCocaColaとは明らかに読めないし。実際に飲んだことがなければその字からコカコーラを想像すらできないと思う。
外国語の歌を聴いて歌っても歌詞の意味を理解していないのと同じだろうか、楽しい歌だと思っていたら実は悲しい歌だったり。外国語を日本語で使う、カタカナに置き換えてしまうと意味がなくなってしまうし、またその逆もあるだろう。
やはり言語はその言語自体と文化背景を理解しなければ理解できない。音が重要という人もいるが、文章は書いてることが理解できなければ意味がないと思う。私の英語は大したものではないが、少なくとも美味しいフィシュアンドチップスとイングリッシュブレッククファーストを体感し理解しているのでそれを読んだ時に理解できる。(美味しいのには観光でちょっといたぐらいでは出会わないかもしれない)だからインドに行ってサンスクリット語を理解してカレーを食べたことのない空海は理解してないなど、DSC_0300
そなことを延々と考えながら歩き宿に着く頃には足だけでなく全身疲労、四畳半の部屋で、腰かけたところから反対側の壁に置いた荷物が遥か遠くに感じる。畳の強い繊維と柔らかさが素足から腫れを吸い出すよう、海の夜風が浴衣の隙間から疲れを流すよう。大きな宴会場で一人で食事、太くてしっかりとした歯ごたえと味、ヒジキが料理に主役になるとは思ってもみなかった。DSC_0302

88_05

Rain. 2 mountain crossings.
Wearing, and taking jackets off, or taking pictures, could be a moment. However this tiny stops make average walking speed 6km/h to 3 km/h. When I walk with other people, I realised how far they go while that tiny stop, and it is hard to recover the delay.
Glancing the view on side, photographing in my memory, walking ahead.
DSC_0279 Rain gets harder, and temperature gets colder. Fingers are numbed, difficult to ignite candles and incense sticks. While reading Heart sutra, sweat turned into ice cold.DSC_0281
After the 22nd temple, rain stopped, but dire strong wind. Heading to the Sea.

14.03.2016
20-22  33km
由岐 橋本屋旅館

雨、二つの山越え。
時速6kmぐらいで歩いていても立ち止まって写真を撮ったり、服を脱いだり着たりすると平均時速は3kmに落ちてしまう。歩く以外はほとんど何もできない。DSC_0283
理想は要領よく景色のいいところでとまって、給水、服の脱着、写真を済ますこと。
しかしなかなかそう都合のいいところはない。景色を横目に前に進む。二十一番太龍寺付近で雨は強くなり気温が下がる、かじかんで濡れた手で線香に火をつけるのに手間取る、御経を読む間に汗は瞬く間に冷たくなる。DSC_0288

二十二番平等寺の後、雨は上がるも強風へ変わる。海へ向かう。

88_04

Leaving the city, along the high way, all the way, all morning. Step by step, my ankle hurts. Tiny angles, gaps of the asphalt were becoming big deal, Searching for flat parts, and looking for short cut even for millimetre. I was craving the small soft roads. Except bugs and snakes, nature is soft._DSC1029

13.03.2016
18, 19  24km
金子屋_DSC1027

街を出る、ひたすらの市街地幹線道路。くるぶしが痛む、アスファルトの小さな角度、凹凸が少しずつ足に食い込んでくる。なるべく早く小さな道に。自然はやわらかい、虫と蛇以外。_DSC1031
_DSC1024_DSC1021