Grey dark morning, departing old beautiful Tsushima town.
I passed through Uwajima without much of sight seeing, yet I could not keep the good pace.
After the 41st temple, the weather got worse, then by the time, when I was about to leave the gate of the 42nd temple, it was raining cats and dogs.
I have decided to have as usual quick lunch, and an Energy drink, which I was served at Miyoshi ryokan after the breakfast.
Going up the mountain road, rain got less and less, I was in the thick cloud, and boiling, almost my swet steam was making all these clouds, or I was a part of it. By the time when I go through the tunnel, which is top of the Hanaga touge, the clouds got thicker and darker, and everything became spookier. After the tunnel is steep down, coming out under the clouds. Again I got back to heavy rain. I quickly checked the map, it is not easy in heavy rain. “6km”. Without thinking of much I was already walking fast. Because of the exhaustion or impatience, I just could not conclude my thoughts. If I walk 7km/h I should be able to get to the 43rd temple by 17, but as I can not keep checking the map due to heavy rain, if I go wrong way,,,, I realised that I was already running, and once I got the rhythm, surprisingly I could just go on and on, even though I had walked 30km with backpack that day already, and about 40km every last days.
As always and expected, there is an extra path and the stairs, after the gate of the temple, which is not shown on the map. I have manage Noukyou (stamped) just on time, then tried to light up incense without breaking nor wet, but my hands are cold and wet, on contrary my body was steaming.
When I get to the Ryokan. I was told by the landlady to take all the clothes off and go to the bath directly, she also washed my cane and took my backpack to my room. Next day every thing was beautifully cleaned and dry.
There are people who give amazing service in this country, when the body is tired everything goes to heart directly.
07.04.2016
41 龍光寺
42 仏木寺
43 明石寺
まつちや旅館
40km
さえない天気で少し薄暗い中、古く美しい津島町を出発。
宇和島の街も通過するだけででもこの日は速度がイマイチのらない。龍光寺を打った後天気はどんどん下り坂。仏木寺を打つと雨は激しくなり、山門を出た所の休憩所で、いつものように急いでおにぎりを食べ、三好旅館で朝食の後に渡された栄養ドリンクを飲み、土砂降りの雨の中、山道に向けて再出発。
雨は次第に弱まり濃密の雲の中汗まみれで登る。歯長峠の上のトンネルを通る頃にはさらに暗く濃くなってきたように思う。峠を下り雲の下へ、また激しい雨。地図が濡れないようにしながら明石寺までの距離を確認する。6km、頭で考える間もなく足は早足。疲れか焦りか、いまいちきちんと計算ができない。17時まで納経、時速７キロで歩けば間に合う、雨で地図を見ながら歩くことができず、畦道で道を間違えたらと考えているうちに、気付くとすでに走っていた。テンポを掴むと連日40kmを歩いて荷物を背負っているが自分でも驚くばかり走り続けられる。案の定一番下の門からは距離の示されていない登り、そして最後に階段。時間ギリギリで到着、納経を先にしてもらい、上着を脱ぐ、手は濡れて凍えているが体は汗まみれ。線香を濡らさないように折らないように火をつけ、無事終了する頃には、汗はすっかり冷えていた。
寺の裏山を抜け卯之町に入るところで古いよく手入れがなされた家が並ぶ。
旅館に着くと素晴らしいおもてなし、すべて濡れ切った服を脱ぎそのまま風呂に入れと。次の日までには全て綺麗になっていた。この国には本当におもてなし、サービスができる人たちがいる。体が疲れていると、心に直接突き刺さる。