88_31

Like a piece of cloud, I calmly headed to east.
Escaping from the burning asphalt, I entered Udon restaurant for quick lunch.
The relentless man made structured area should be swiftly pass through but the 84th is top of the mountain, very steep up from 0 to 280m.There are no one around at the traditional main gate, almost only the walking pilgrims walk through with encouraging winds, which cools me down.
The 85th is on the mountain opposite side. I wish I could ride on a cloud, but the reality is sharp down as I was almost falling down. Then I went up and down slowly like circulating air in a colourful day.

24.11.2016
83一宮寺
84屋島寺
85八栗寺

冨士屋旅館
42.6km
ちぎれた雲の一つになって淡々と東に向かっていく1日。
普段昼はほとんど店に入ることもなかったが、アスファルトにジリジリと焼かれるのから逃れる様に、この日はうどん屋。早めに街を抜けたいとそろそろ歩くが84番へは急な登り、そのせいか表の山門に人気は無い、歩きお遍路しかもはや使わないところだろう、心地よく風が吹き抜ける。85番は反対側の山、雲に乗って景色を眺めるのもつかの間に崖をまさに落ちるように降る。後は再び登って下ってゆっくりの日。

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In the end, I didn’t extend but stayed until check out time. However after the 78th I realised about severeness of that delay. A night before I was thinking in bed about how to hit those three temples as they are positioned triangularly. Considering the distance and elevation, it seemed to me, the 81st is the first, then to the 82nd, then to the 80th is much more efficient, than usual number order. On top it would be easy to reach the 83rd afterwards. But can I really get to the 80th on time with this delay. I absolute hate surfaced flat road which very difficult to maintain the speed, contrary, as soon as I am on unsurfaced mountain road, I can have great concentration and high pace therefore I should be. I reached the 82nd around 3 o’clock. quickly finish the temple duties and got stamped. Then after I rang an accommodation to book a room near by the 80th temple. I was told by a lady that it will be too late, too dangerous to go through the mountain once it gets dark therefore I should find elsewhere near by the 82nd temple. I am not normal old retired week Japanese pilgrims, my mind set and attitude towards to this thing is nowhere near similar, there is no way back. My determination, challenge mood and the dark side are completely switched on. According to the map it is just under 7km gradual down hill mountain road. if there are no steps I could go easily way faster than the surfaced road.
And actually it was way more than I was expected, nice softness of woody leafy soil with very gradual down hill. My speed went just up and up. I thought couple of times if I went to other way according to the number order 80 81 82 then it must have been harder. I was running down with smile like a mad man, until the surfaced road appeared. In the end I reached the 80th temple in just over one hour. After the 80th temple I walked pass the accommodation which refused me, I put middle finger up in my mind. Positive strong power is also coming from the dark side.
After bath I walked to the restaurant in between rice fled in pitch black, I thought that the gate of temple 82 was beautiful with autumn leaves but I only photographed one with my mobile as I was on hurry. I should have slow down a bit.

23.11.2016
78郷照寺
79高照院
81白峯寺
82根来寺
80国分寺

せと国民旅館
28.5km

結局チェックアウト時間ギリギリまで疲れがたまってかダラダラしていた。そしてその遅れの程が問題であることに78番の後に気付く、前日からどのルートを通るか考えてはいたがやはり番号順ではなく、81、82、80、の順の方が距離、高低差などから考えて効率的でその次の83へも行きやすいように見えるので79から81へ向かう。果たして80番国分寺の納経時間に間に合うだろうか。舗装された平らな道は非常に苦手、速度もそれほどあげられない。一旦山道に入ると不思議な事に一心不乱に速いペースで歩き続けられる。82番根来寺に着いたのは3時ぐらいだっただろうか、急いで納経を終えて80番近くの宿に電話をかけると、遅くて暗くなって危ないですからこないでください、どこか引き返して近くのところに泊まってくださいと言われる。私は一般的な日本人の定年後の年取ったお遍路とは心構えも姿勢も違う引き消すことなどありえないと、スゥィッチオン、急に自信とやる気がみるみる湧いてきた。地図からだと7km弱の緩やかな下りの山道だから平坦な舗装された道よりも階段がなければ早く歩ける自信があった。
予想以上に程よく整備された山道で速度は上昇しっぱなし最後は馬鹿みたいに笑いが止まらない状態、80、81、82だったら真逆でダラダラの登りのルートだったと思いながら飛ぶように駆け降り続け、結局舗装が現れるまでお遍路としては気狂いの速度、一時間強で国分寺に到着。
風呂の後、真っ暗闇の田んぼのあぜ道を通って国道のファミレスに夕食へ。82番の根来寺の山門と紅葉は美しかったが急いでいたので写真も携帯で一枚だけ、もう少し余裕があった方がいいなと思う。

88_29

Bright colourful misty morning, I was crossing the bridge to the temple or to the another world.68 and 69 are next to each other, I got stamped at same time, very thankful place.However, it was busy day hitting 10 temples, candles incense, sonic heart sutra reading then repeat at the next temple. Moreover the 75th is huge temple, back and forth even within. Small nature walk was relief compared to areas with human activities, but the most of the day, I walked burning noisy asphalt. By the time when I got to the Hotel I was utterly exhausted mentally and physically. I even asked if could extend the check out time..

22.11.2016
68神恵院
69観音寺
70本山寺
71弥谷寺
72出釈迦寺
73曼荼羅寺
74甲山寺
75善通寺
76金倉寺
77道隆寺

Apa Hotel 丸亀
36km

明るく色彩豊かな霞の中、最初の寺へ向かう。
68番と69番は寺が二軒並んでいて、同時に納経できるありがたいところ、そして今日は時間いっぱいまで打ちまくり、ロウソク、線香、般若心経音速読経の繰り返しで忙しい日。75番善通寺など寺がデカ過ぎて行ったり来たり。人里の中雑念だらけか山道と違いホテルに着いた時は身も心もヘロヘロ。

88_28

The 65th Sankaku temple is above the clouds, Looking back human activities in the middle.Then further up to the temple.From there to the 66th temple is all the way mountain road. No rain no wind, but dark cloudy day.I had no thoughts, no emotion. I didn’t even think if it is hard or not.
Temples are quite worldly, business in their mind, no care about appearance either. That is one of the reason why I have not much interest to take photos of them.
Night fell, then I entered the town.

21.11.2016
65三角寺
66雲辺寺
67大興寺

藤川旅館
42km

雲の上の三角寺に向かう、途中で下界を見渡す。
そこから雲辺寺までずうと山間の道と山道。
雨も降らない風も吹かないが薄暗い曇りの日。何も思わず、ほとんど無感動で歩いた。辛いなども考えもせずただ進むだけ。寺は神社に比べ世俗的、その当たりが写真を撮る気も起きない理由だろうか、見てくれ気にせず商売っ気たっぷり.
夜になって街に着く。

88_27

I saw the sun rise in between the clouds.
Highway, all the way, on calm sunny day, it is opposite of breath taking scenery. I wished that the distance shrinks every blinks. A Torment by boredom exceeded physical pains.
Then I was emptied.

20.11.2016
旅館大成荘
37km

雲間から太陽が昇るのを感じる。
ひたすら国道、穏やかな天気ながらなぜこんなにも美しくないのだろうかと思いながら、まばたきをするごとに距離が縮んでいてくれることを願う。倦怠という苦痛が体の苦痛をはるかに超える。
その後は空になる。

88_26

Starting the day before the dawn in rain. Mountains release the clouds then gradually the sky lightens. I was gazing all those dynamic silent show, but then realised that I have to go up those mountains.I left my backpack at the temple 61 which is at the bottom of the mountains, then heading to the the 60th Yokomine Temple. Now I am lighter and faster, but it’s the climbmax of the day, when I get to the ridge, the forest opens up, a small break then head to the peak. Going down is easy, then four temples at the bottom of mountains close to the each others. However, I arrived the hotel after night fell. Days are very short.

19.11.2016
60 横峰寺
61 香園寺
62 宝珠寺
63 吉祥寺
64 前神寺
ホテルイレブン
33.5km未だ薄暗い雨の中出発、山が雲を吐き出して次第に明るくなっていく、見とれているがこれからあの山に登るのか。61番香園寺で荷物を預かってもらい横峰寺を目指す。身軽な分だけ早く登れるが正に山場、道が尾根づたいに変わるところで景色が開け、接待で貰ったみかんを食べ残りの頂上まであと少し。行きは辛いが帰り早い。後は4軒、それでも宿には暗くなってから、日が短い。

88_25

The Sun rises from my direction, eventually I am heading to East.6 temples to hit for today, a day is shorter, there aren’t any moments to stop and I think of locations where to stay, it’s the key to the 60 Yokomine temple on following day. Mentally, there are slight difficulties when I get into the mountains invisible impediment, certain discomfort and bit of fear, but once I am in, it is comfortable and peaceful then I could gain concentration to the walk. On the other hand town is easy to get in, sort of relief, but then gradually feel the aggravation.

18.11.2016
54延命寺
55南光坊
56泰山寺
57栄福寺
58仙遊寺
59国分寺
田中屋ビジネスホテル
34.5km

太陽が前から登る。ついに東向きに歩き始めた。今日は6件打ち、日が短く休む暇など全くない,
次の日の横峰寺を見据えてどこに宿を取るか宿の空き状況と悩みどころ。精神的に山の中に入るのは少々きついが入ってしまえば心地いい、街に入るのは簡単だが徐々に生き苦しくなる。

88_24

As soon as I put pilgrim’s white clothes on, and start the walk, half year ago feels like almost yesterday, then I think of my cane. A cane is not necessary on the flat coast roads, but I must get one before the mountains.Compared to Pacific side, fishing boats seem rather thinner and sharper, and the sea is much calmer. Or is this just very calm day?

Suddenly a bunch of chimneys appeared over the houses, as they grow from the roofs. The road eventually ends at the entrance of Oil refinery, the pilgrim path is almost leading into with my curiosity, but It sharply turns right at the entrance then to the left along its fence.I normally don’t take much photos of temples, either because I have not much interests or being in a hurry? Today, I wanted to get to the accommodation before the sun sets, I know that there are no time to waste. However the power of Oil is very fascinating, every few steps I stopped to photograph this interesting structures. The flame some how reminded me of blade runner. Perhaps for modern human, the Power of oil is greater than Buddha? I just could not stop taking photos.
In the end it was pitch black, hard to to see the map and to find the road to the accommodation. Again time elapsing strangely in my head, it’s been long time since I have been on this journey.

17.11.2016
52 太山寺
53 円明寺
ビジネスホテルつよし
37km

 

白衣を着て歩き始めると半年前はすぐ昨日の様。杖のことを考える。海沿い平坦な道は必要ないが、山に入る前にどこかのお寺で買わなければと。今日は凪だからかそれとも瀬戸内海だからか、しかし船の形も薄いよう、高知の太平洋側とは海が違う。

突然家々の屋根の上にいくつもの煙突が現れ、そして通りのその先真正面に製油所が現れる。遍路道が私の興味と一緒に中まで引き込まれていくと思いきや正面で右へ。
普段ほとんど寺の写真は撮らない、なぜかあまり興味が惹かれないからか、それとも先を急ぐからだからだろうか。しかし石油の力はすごい、足は遍路道の方向に向かって行っている、宿には日暮れ前に着きたい、が数歩行っては壁越しに一枚、また一枚を繰り返す。吹き出す炎を見ながらブレードランナーみたいだと思いながらまた一枚と。現代人には仏の力より石油の力の方が偉大なのだろうか。結局宿に着く頃には地図が見えないほど真っ暗になってしまった。そしてまた時間は不思議な経ち方をし始める。

88_23

Clouds or haze, crossing Misaka touge. I received tea and sweets at Sakamotoya, and there I met other Ohenros, who I have seen couple of times. By that time sky was showing a sign of hot sunny day. Almost Matsuyama city.There are 6 temples, and those temples are much crowded compared to before. At the 50th temple, after reading the Heart sutra, I realised that my cane is missing from the cane stand. I had waited for 10 minutes to find, but only one cane with same coloured cloth stayed. it was almost brand new, so it must belong to someone who does not go by foot.
I have tighten up the string many times when I walked in rain. The part of wood which underneath cloth, was whiter compared to the exposed part. Although it was only 23 days, it had been gripped by my hands, sunburned, and blown by salt wind. Although normally I do not use the cane on flat asphalt roads, and I even got annoyed that I had to hold it all the time, but now somehow I felt unbalanced and difficult to walk without it. Once you use in the mountains you realised how useful it is, then it had become part of body. I have reached Dougo Onsen with empty mind. Water was hot, cooling down until the time allows.

10.04.2016
46 浄瑠璃寺
47 八坂寺
48 西林寺
49 浄土寺
50 繁多寺
51 石手寺

道後温泉
33km

前半最後の日は朝から満腹。霞か雲か三坂峠を一気に越える。坂本屋でお接待を受け顔見知りのお遍路さんと会う頃には晴れて暑くなりそうな気配。もうすぐ松山。直線的に6軒の寺、参拝客がどこも多い。50番繁多寺、お経の後で自分の杖が見つからない。10分ほど待ったが結局見つかる気配もなく自分の杖と同じ色の布が巻かれた杖が残る。自分の名前しか書いていなかったのは間違えだった、残った杖にも誰かの名前のみ。明らかにキレイなので歩いている人のではなさそう。
雨に濡れ、何回も巻き直した布と紐、取るたびにその覆われた部分は白く見え、そこから下は手垢や、ほこり、日焼けして、たったの23日だが比較するとだいぶ色がついてた。
今日は道後温泉だと意気揚々としていたがそこからは妙に気が落ちた。平坦なアスファルトの道ではそれほど普段つかない、邪魔とさえ思っていたが、山を越えるたびに徐々に体の一部になっていた。杖がないとどうもうまく歩けない、バランスが取れないような気がする。ふらふら、ぼおっと道後温泉に着く。湯は熱めで、時間いっぱいまでぼおっと涼む。

88_22

Traditional Japanese houses make me feel like being out side. It is not just because the building and fitting quality are bad, nor the walls and the doors are thin. Lying on tatami, I could feel the wind and movements of trees, as well as  inside of the house. It is not suitable for cities. Feeling of sunrise or my usual pilgrimage habit, I woke up around 5:45. The cold tatami is very comfortable to swollen feet, I hesitate to put my shoes on.
I was planing to reach the accommodation in Kumakougen by the noon, then hit the 44th and the 45th temple in the afternoon. However, there was a sign “Hiwada-touge closed due to land slid.” there are no one around to ask how severe. The last thing I want, is going back same route. Then I have decided to go through Nosono-touge. Much later than as I planed, I arrived to the accommodation in the afternoon, no time for lunch break, I have left my rucksack, then swiftly head to the 45th. I worried if I could reach there on time.
The 45th Iwayaji is on the middle of cliff or middle of a huge rock, very interesting temple. However, as always I forget to take pictures. After Noukyo, heading back immediately. I wanted to get back to the accommodation before night comes Although I have a touch, in the mountain in the forrest it would be pitch black. Down hill, once I get speed then I can not slow my self down, like a mad man, jumping one side to another, enjoying the speed and wind.
When I get to the accommodation it was already dark. Sweat got colder and I was very hungry. In the end I have done probably around 50km today.09.04.2016
44 大寶寺
45 岩屋寺
一里木
45km
日本の伝統的な家は外にいるような感じだ。
ただ建てつけが悪いとか壁が薄いとかそういったことではなく。畳の上で横たわっていても風や木が揺れているのが感じられ、家の中の様子も。都会には向いていない。太陽が昇るのを感じてか、いつもの癖か5時半45分ごろ目が覚める。冷え畳が腫れた足に気持ちよく、靴を履くのをためらう。

昼までに久万高原の宿に着きそこから44、45と打つ予定、しかし鴇田峠通行不可と。誰かに聞こうとも人気が辺りに全くなく、結局、農祖峠に迂回することにした。予定と大きくずれ宿についたのは昼過ぎ、昼食休憩を取る時間もなく岩屋寺に向けて出発。リュックサックは置いてきたので足取りは軽いもののはたして時間までにたどり着けるか。
岩屋寺は崖の中腹にある、面白い寺、しかしなぜかいつもほとんど寺の写真は撮っていない。納経したらさっさと戻る、日暮れまでには宿に着きたい。懐中電燈は持っているものの山の中はおそらく真っ暗。下りの山道、一度速度に乗ると、狂ったように止まらなくなる。宿に着く頃は結局夕闇の中、汗も冷え、腹も減って疲れ切る。結局実際には50kmほど歩いただろうか。