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A good sleep in a huge room with sound of ocean.Hazy morning, heading to Shimanto river today. There are many kites in Shikoku, it is easy to spot them at the coast. They are entertaining to look at, while walking on boring high way.
At a convenience store, just before the Shimanto river bridge,  I met many other pilgrims. Every one was there for the first morning break, refiling and preparing for rain. It was obvious that heavy clouds were about to come. Shimanto river is famous for clear water but it is mirky emerald green. At halfway on the bridge, from front right side, I was swallowed. Sight and memory got narrower and darker in pouring rain. Like a fish, just swimming through without any thoughts and emotions.After a very long tunnel, entering Tosashimizu, pouring rain was already turned into lukewarmly clouds. Again along the coast, Mist here is very noisy, it is the vapour form of pacific’s black current, inhaling into my lungs.
Tomorrow, eventually the cape Ashizuri.

03.04.2016
大岐の浜
34km

大部屋で海の音を聞きながらよく寝た。霞みがかった朝、四万十川に向けて出発。
海沿いでは木が無いせいか鳶が良く目につき、その後を目で追ってみるのは退屈な国道を歩く時のちょっとした楽しみだ。道路脇の花。四万十河の橋の手前のコンビニで他のお遍路さんたちと会う、朝の1回目の休憩、買い出し、雨具の装着。雨がすぐそこまでどんどん迫ってくるのは明らかだった。エメラルドグリーンに濁っていた四万十川、橋の半分を過ぎたところで飲み込まれる。視界も記憶も狭く、暗くなり後はほぼ魚のように何も考えず泳いで進む。長いトンネルを抜け土佐清水市に入ると雨というよりも、生ぬるい雲の中を進む。道路とは逆に鳥居がある緑に飲み込まれかけた小さな神社。また海岸に出て、太平洋、黒潮の気体の部分、ザワザワとした音の多い霧を呼吸しながら進む。
明日はついに足摺岬。

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Clothes and shoes are almost dry by morning. It is a very calm day, walking along the river in a daze, looking sceneries. Why the river is so blue, although it is not so deep?Under the forest, where there is constant flow of water, concrete wall was cover by green, it looks beautiful. Looking at them with bit more attention, I see different kinds of vegetation competing each others, not only on the concrete wall but actually everywhere. For living, place is essential and we all have to eat. An old tunnel, by walking in, gradually I was covered by darkness and soon no more site to my feet, having feeling of melting into darkness. I could see the entrance and the exit but it felt very very long. During pilgrimage, I loose sense of time. It is like dreaming, traveling through long period of time, but in reality it is only few days.
Darkness gradually coming off, then coming out of the tunnel, and the forest, I reached Saga Kuroshio town. In Tosa, people view cherry blossoms and sea. Is it because of the sound of wind and ocean which mutes everything else? It was some how very quiet.After passing an artificial peaceful park, then to Tosashirahama, a just small fishing village. In splashes of waves, a person sitting on a pier and waiting fishes to come, looks like almost praying. It is probably their daily life but it seems to me a fundamental way of living with severe but giving mother nature.Rice field next to the ocean with salty wind blows, even there are many small stones in the field, that is why rice in Kochi is some how bit different, but tasty and much more wilder.
After checking in the accommodation, I wanted feel the ocean to my swollen feet. wave draws my tiredness and gives me soft energy.

02.04.2016
海坊主
29km

洗濯物も靴も朝までにはほぼ乾く。穏やかな一日
ただひたすらぼおっと景色を見ながら起伏もあまりない川沿いを行く。
川はそれほど深くもないがなぜこれほど青いのだろうか。
森の下の水の流れが常にあるコンクリートの壁も緑で覆われていた、とても美しいよく見ると数種類の植物がせめぎあっているように見える、至る所で青く美しい生存競争と共存、生きるためには場所が必要で、そして食べなければならない。
古いトンネル、中に入るとすぐに足元が見えなくなり徐々に体が闇に包まれる、そして溶けていく。出口と入口は見えているのに長く感じる、お遍路をしているとどのくらい時間がったのかよくわからなくなる。
夢のようで非常に長く感じるが実はほんの数日だったりする。闇が徐々に解け森を抜けると佐賀、黒潮町。土佐の花見は海も見る。風と海の音に消されてか妙な静けさがある。平成の人工的なのどかな公園を回って土佐白浜、風で黒潮の水しぶきが上がる中カッパを着て正座して釣りをする。彼らにとっては日常のことかもしれないが、何とも言えない凄まじさを感じる、根源的な生活。高知で食べる米は少し違う、荒々しい素朴な美味しさは砂利混じりの田んぼに黒潮風が吹くからだろうか。
宿に着いてから堤防を越えて冷たい砂利の上を裸足で歩き火照った足を黒潮にさらす、引く波に疲れを持って行かれ、来る波に新たな気を補充されるようだ。

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Rain, sometimes torrential rain.
In 15 minutes, trousers, shoes are completely soaked. Discomfort is the process, but once all completed, it becomes unnoticeable.

At the Settaijyo (service, break place for pilgrims), I was advised not to go traditional pilgrim path in the mountain, there are chance of landslide, which is also written on the map. On modern road there are tunnels, normally I find it horrible to go through with exhaust of cars and winds, also pavements are often very little. On the contrary when it is raining, tunnels are small breaks to go through.

01.04.2016
37 岩本寺
末広旅館
34km

雨時々激しい雨。
15分で靴の中まですっかり濡れる。一度濡れてしまえば気にもならないが、中途半端な時が一番気持ち悪い。

接待所で遍路道ではなく普通の道で行くように勧められる。地図にもそのように書かれていた。
トンネルは普段非常に嫌なところで、入る前に覚悟が必要だ。排気ガスと風圧、歩道はほとんどなかったりもする。しかし雨の時はちょっとした通過する休憩所。

88_13

Getting up with sunrise, going back and hit the 36th Temple before breakfast.
Along the very clean Yokonami Skyline, almost no traffic and no body, it feels endless along the cliff, some how very sentimental feeling, and some point I really wanted listen some music, not much thoughts but grabbed by those weird sad feeling, looking at hazy horizon.Endless cliff road, shortly came to the end, seeing very flat Uranouchi bay on right side, heading into inland.
I was looking for a place to have a break, then suddenly a cement factory standing behind the small rice field.
Sky was getting grey and darker, I would better get hurry and reach to the accommodation.
Despite the fact, it is called “business hotel”,  it is more like an apartment, small yet quite high rise for the footprint, typical of Japan.
It soon started rain, room was strong smell of tobacco, turning air condition was even worse. Out side there are high rise motorway and a pond with concrete wall.
I suddenly felt claustrophobic and miserable. I am not in the middle of big city, is this the curse of the cement factory? and fully plastic packaged Bento as a dinner, made my end of the day very very sad.

31.03.2016
36 青龍寺
ビジネスホテルさつき
24km日の出起床、朝飯前に36番を打ちに下る。
交通はほとんど無く誰もいない横浪スカイライン、いつまでも続くかのような崖の道、感傷的な気持ち、何か音楽を聴きたい気がした。特にこれといったことを考えてはいなかったがそんな感情にとらわれて、霞みがかった水平線を見ながら歩く。


永遠のような崖の道はあという間に終わり、反対側の平らな浦ノ内湾を横目に、少し山の中へ、休憩できるところを探していると畑のすぐ裏側にセメント工場が立っていた。
空はだんだんと雲行きが怪しくなり休憩なしで早々と次の宿泊所に向かう。
ビジネスホテルとはいうもののアパート。すぐに雨が激しく降り始める、部屋はタバコの臭い、エアコンを入れると余計にひどい。外は高架の高速道路と、コンクリートに囲まれた池。たちまち閉所感、そして哀れな気持ちを感じた。大都会の中でもないのに、セメント工場の呪いか。
プラスチック、ビニールに包まれた弁当の夕食で、とても悲しい一日の終わり。

88_12

Swiftly walk to the ferry stop, it is almost straight line from the temple 32, but it feels long, longer than the map shows.
Quick snack before on bored, then very short ride to opposite side of the bay. It is warm sunny day, feels like having a nap.
Getting into Tosa city, while having slightly later lunch, I was calculating the speed and distance again and again. I was not sure if I manage to get to the 36th on time.
By the time when I get to the Usa-oohashi (it stands for big bridge) I recognised that I would not make it by 5pm. I decided to enjoy the sunset view.
I am sure that I did not reach to Greece, but small surprise when I get to the hotel, and beautiful end of the day.

30.03.2016
32 禅師峰寺
33 雪蹊寺
34 種間寺
35 清瀧寺
国民宿舎土佐
37,6km

素早く歩く。フェリー乗り場まで32番からはほぼまっすぐ、しかし地図で見るよりなぜか長い。束の間の乗船前に軽く食べ、あっという間に反対側。眠くなるような陽気の中、休まず歩き、土佐市で遅めの昼食。おそらく時間内に36番まで納経できないだろうと気づく。山を降り宇佐大橋に来る頃には諦め夕焼けを楽しむことにした。 ギリシャまで歩いていないことは確かだが、思いがけない一日の終わり。

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Getting into Kochi city.
I realise existence of my self, and many other people who are around and not even aware or conscious about each other.
Not only Kochi but other cities in Shikoku feel slightly old, not just buildings, but some how the atmosphere feels like 20 or 30 yeas back, which gives space, and allowance for me to be there with the look of pilgrim. Anachronistic look of the hat but its wonderful in Rain and the sun.

20.03.2016
28 大日寺
29 国分寺
30 善楽寺
31 竹林寺
ベストプライス高知
28km

DSC_0338高知の街に入る、自身の存在と、周りに多くの意識することのない人がいることに気がつく。東京であればことさらであろう。
高知だけでなく四国の街は少し旧い、そこがおおらかさで、違和感を和らげる。うわべだけの革新はすぐに古く、醜くなる。
時代錯誤のように見える帽子だが、雨でも日差しの中でも素晴らしい。

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Starting in rain, walking along the coast, warm strong wind blows sea water from left side.
Holding the hat and lean forward every time the splash comes._DSC1056

However the wind also blew the clouds away.
The sun is coming out, it burs the skin.DSC_0324

Unfortunately Rubbish is common sight along the pilgrimage road.
I started doubt about standard and double side of Japanese morality.
In the afternoon, I saw incredible amount of rubbish along the coast path, It was not only fishing stuff, but all sort of things from household, electric gadgets etc.
Does this come from poverty? as it costs lot to throw those rubbish legitimately, or poverty in their heart. Typically Japanese follows what other do, that is why there are incredible amount in some rather hidden places. In any cases this is malfunctions of our society and our mind. This is dark side and reality of Japan._DSC1057

19.03.2016
かとり
30kmDSC_0323

生暖かい強い風が左側から雨と潮を吹きつける。
傘を支え前かがみでそれをくぐる。_DSC1067

風は雲を吹き払い、ついに太陽が出る。
むせるような湿気と肌を焼く日差し。_DSC1069

遍路道ではよくゴミを見かけ、日本人の二面的、道徳基準に不快感を感じ始める。
午後、海沿いの道、とてつもないほどの不法投棄を目にする。
経済的な貧しさのせいだろうか、粗大ごみを移動しきちんと処理するのにかかるお金のせいか、それとも心の貧しさか。日本人の多くは他人の後に続く、その結果人目のつかぬ一箇所に不法投棄が集まる。
日本の我々の社会と我々の心の機能不全、闇の部分、そして実態である。

88_09

Day after day, walking along the coast, boredom and exhaustion.
Humidity got higher and higher towards to the midday, then eventually pouring rain. It is another discomfort, actually life is full of discomforts. However once the body is filled with those discomforts, I forget all of that. Almost without thinking, I just walked forward. Suddenly encountering some scenes, emotions are released as a bag full of stuff are toned apart. It is something like mix of joy, happiness, and slight sadness.
As the body gets exhausted, my heart gets much more sensitive and moved.

18.03.2016
27 神峯寺
ドライブイン27
31kmDSC_0320

毎日毎日、海沿いを歩く。倦怠と疲労。
湿度が昼に近づくにつれ上がり、ついには雨になる。
また不快感が一つ増える。実際人生は不快なことばかり、ところが体がその不快に包まれてしまうと、そのことを忘れてしまう。何も考えずただ前に行く、突然の情景への出会いで感情があふれ出る、楽しく幸せでどこか少し寂しい。
体が疲れると、心が敏感になり動かされる。

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Slow but Smooth day, along the Cape Muroto.
A day after 45km, hearing the sound of ocean whole night, my mind was fully recharged. On the other hand, my body was heavy as lead, decided to take it easy.
Climbing the mountain in snow, was already feel like long time ago, now the sun is always burning left side of me._DSC1055

When the body gets exhausted, all comes directly to mind.
Amazing feeling of stones and the waves, it takes the heat from my feet and the stones from its underneath. Ocean is incredibly powerful.DSC_0318

17.03.2016
24  最御崎寺
25 津照寺
26 金剛頂寺
民宿うらしま
21km

室戸岬をぐるりと回る、ゆっくりと穏やかな日。
45kmの次の日。海の音を聞きながら寝て、心は十分に回復した、体は鉛のように重たい。
雪降る中での山登りは遥か昔、今は体の左が常に太陽で焼かれている。DSC_0313

体が疲れていると、心に直接伝わる。
石と波が心地よく、ものすごい力強さで、足の熱とその下の石をさらっていく。
明日もまた歩けるだろうか。
DSC_0319