Wednesday, the 6th of October 2021
Breakfast was rice porridge and pickles. As soon as I left the hostel and stepped onto the street, I was greeted by a mystical sight. The steam rising from the hot spring river merged with the morning mist from the mountains, creating an enchanting atmosphere.
Opting for a shortcut from Yunomine Onsen to Kokumotorigoe Pass via Kawayu Onsen, instead of going back to Hongu area via Dainichigoe. I found the Kawayu area to be even more mystical. Hot spring water gushed from the white gravel in the river. The clear, blue-green water looked rather cold but it is warm ish.
I reached a larger road, which was part of the Kumanokodo Kokumotorigoe. Shortly after, there should be an entrance to the old mountain pass. I was on the lookout for a shop to purchase lunch before getting into the forest. Unfortunately, there weren’t many stores around. There was a convenience store, but it had closed down. I thought I might have to go back towards to Hongu area to find food. Fortunately, there was a very small grocery store just across the street, and they also sold Bento. Fully prepared to enter the mountains, or so I thought, I missed the entrance to the pass. It turned out to be a narrow stairs in between houses. Instead, I followed the road along the river, which eventually ended in a residential area. Spotting a lady, I had asked if I was on the right path. She told me I had taken a wrong turn, and while there was a pass to Kogumotorigoe from there, it was seldom used and overgrown with grass, making it less than ideal for walking. She kindly offered me some steamed sweet potatoes.
pon returning to the correct pass entrance, I walked to the summit in one go without break. The weather was pleasant, with clear skies and dry conditions. As I neared the peak of Toge, I looked for a spot to have my lunch, even though the map indicated no designated seating areas. Just after the peak of Toge, I discovered a spot with a breathtaking vista, with a kind of place I can sit on. About halfway through my Bento, I suddenly heard a loud, deep buzzing sound and saw a giant hornet right in front of me. It was my first encounter with one of these creatures. I remained still until it flew a short distance away, then quickly packed up my meal and vacated the area. Some 20 minutes or so later, I came across a table and benches and decided to stop and finish my Bento. Another person was also taking a break there, he had a traditional umbrella hat. When I walked 88, I had worn a similar hat, but it was very cheap one. These old school hats are not only tradition for the pilgrimage but in general. They provide excellent protection from both the sun and rain, as they do not directly touch the head, allowing for better ventilation. Their only drawback is their vulnerability to strong winds. Apparently, his hat was made in Kiso, and there are only a few artisans producing them. I would like to get one if I ever go on another trail walk. He asked me if I had completed the 88 pilgrimage, noticing my walking stick. He turned out to be an occasional professional guide for Kumanokodo.
After the break, the trail descended rather steeply, which I quite enjoyed as I can go down faster almost like skiing as long as there are no stairs. By 3 o’clock, I arrived at Koguchi, where I would spend the night. The accommodation was rather unique, the building was a school before. The room I stayed was quite spacious as it was a class room, but due to its large windows facing west, the afternoon sun hit directly. For some reason, I can’t recall if the air conditioning was unavailable or not free of charge, so I had to leave the windows and door open for a considerable time. Dinner turned out to be quite an interesting experience as well. There were several guests, all of whom seemed to be pilgrims. We all sat in rows, much like in a classroom. Perhaps it was due to the ongoing pandemic, but no one engaged in conversation. Instead, we all faced one side of the room and silently enjoyed our meals.
Kumanokodo Kogumotorigoe. 20.27km Koguchi
朝食は粥と漬物。ホステルを出て道に出ると幻想的な光景を見た。温泉の川からの湯気と山からの霧が朝日の中で混ざり合っていた。大日越えで本宮に戻らず川湯温泉経由で小雲取越に向かうことにした。川湯温泉も非常に幻想的な景色だった、青い川沿いの白い砂利から温泉が湧き出ているようで、湯気が朝日に照らされていた。
国道に出る、本宮からの小雲取越の一部、すぐその先で山道に入るはずで、その前にどこかで昼を買える所はないかと探す。閉鎖されていたコンビニが一軒、もしかしたら本宮まで戻らなければないかと思ったら斜向かいに商店が一軒営業中、なかなか品揃え良く弁当も売っていた。これで峠越えの準備ができたと思っていたら地図を読みちがい、その先の家の間にある細い階段、登り口を見過ごして川沿いの道を進んで行ってしまいどん詰まりの住宅地、見かけた女性に尋ねたら通じている道があるみたいだが誰も使わないから草が生い茂っておそらく通れないとの事、蒸したサツマ芋をもらう。
引き返して、峠の頂上まで一気に登る。天気は湿度も少なく気持ちのいい晴れ、頂上付近で何処が昼にできる様なところはないかと探す、地図で見ると椅子がある様なところは見当たらない。少し行ったところで素晴らしい眺望に出てくる、ちょうど山側に腰掛けられるので弁当を食べることにした。突然大きな低音がすると目の前に大スズメバチ、初めて見た。静かにしていて少し離れたところを飛び始めたところで弁当をゆっくり片付けて待つ、隙をみて撤収、そこら20分ぐらい先だっただろうか、休憩所を見つけた残りの弁当を食べることとした。一人先に休んでいる人がいた、彼はとても良さそうな傘を持っていた。自身も88ヶ所では安いのを被っていたが、日差しでも雨でも素晴らしく、頭に密着していないから通気性がいい。問題は風の時だけだ。彼は木曽で手に入れたらしい、今は作れる人はあまりいないとのこと。もしまたこの様な歩き旅をする事があれば手に入れたいと思う。彼は私が四国88に行ったかと尋ねてきた、杖からわかったらしい。ただの棒で収納に困るが、よくある伸縮する山歩き用の杖とは比べ物にならないくらい頼れる。彼は熊野古道のガイドをしているらしい。
休憩の後は下り。階段が無ければ速度が乗ってスキーの様に降りていけるので非常に好きだ。3時ぐらいに小口に到着。宿は昔学校だった建物、部屋は元教室なだけあって広い、窓から西日が入って暑かった、エアコンが壊れていたか、有料だったか今となっては覚えていないが、入り口のドアと窓をしばらく全開。夕食もまた面白い経験、客は何人かいた、全て熊野古道を歩いている者達だと思うが、教室の様に一方向を向いて座り誰一人として話をしない。疫病ということでの措置かもしれないが。