熊野古道 Kumanokodo Day 6

Friday the 8th of October 2021

I started the day slowly, as I had decided to finish the walk by yesterday. Being slow proved to be a bit of a mistake as I missed a train, and there was quite a bit of time until the next one. I decided to stroll through the quiet town of Katsuura for a while.

For those considering public transport to Shingu for visiting “Kumano Hayatama Taisha,” I would recommend going to Shingu on the same day after visiting Nachisan. Instead of staying in Katsuura, make sure to catch the last train from Nachi station, which is quite early, at 17:22 at the time of writing this blog. Then you might be able to put your feet in the ocean while looking at the sunset, and the next day you can walk to the shrine without carrying big luggage, leaving it at the accommodation.

However, I think walking the Kumano Kodo Iseji may not be a bad choice. Looking from the train window, the seascape was truly beautiful. I got off the train at Shingu station and headed to the shrine. It was another warm day that made me rather thirsty and uncomfortable, especially in that somewhat sleepy town. Yet, traffic was busy, and there were almost no pavements and no trees. Later, I realised that parallel to the street I walked, there is a pedestrian-only shopping street with a roof, yet it is actually quite pedestrian compare to the other livelier towns. The lack of historical buildings not only affects this town but many towns in Japan, creating a lack of character. As a tourist, I could not enjoy much and didn’t want to stay longer nor explore. The municipal government must understand how important it is to preserve and not disturb the good historical aesthetic, especially if they expect more tourism.

After visiting the shrine, I saw an old house, an Unagi (eel) restaurant, with a nice smoky aroma wafting out. I decided to have a slightly early but expensive lunch. While waiting for the food to be served, more customers arrived, and soon the small restaurant became full. Apparently, it is a quite popular place. I was lucky to get a table without waiting, but I felt somewhat unwelcome because I was alone and occupying a whole table. At the next table, there were two guys, quite large even by Japanese standards. They were almost inhaling the food and talking about what they were going to have next, either ramen or udon. Clearly, they were traveling by car, as I could see the car keys. I do eat slightly more when I walk or cycle I consume more than usual, yet people still need to eat when they drive. And these guys were clearly eating way more than I do. I think someone should find a way to generate electricity from excessive diet, so people can charge their cars. Converting my few thousand Japanese yen into energy, now I can walk to the station.

My plan was to go to Ise by train, then take a night bus to Tokyo. On the map, it looked like a simple one-train ride, but I had to change a couple of times. First at Kii-Nagashima station, where I had a chat with the station manager as he noticed my stick. He told me that he used to trail run, and Kumanokodo Iseji is beautiful with more old paved trails. Back in my head, I thought, “that’s more pain on my foot and knee,” however, it was a good chat, and the waiting time at the empty station passed quickly. Then, after I transferred at Taki station to another train to Ise, it was already dark.

I had never really been interested in hiking or walking trails. That does not mean I hate it. However, somehow I thought about walking the 88, and after that, I felt that I had to walk Kumanokodo.

People tend to think pilgrimage is a religious thing, I does relate to religion in most places. However, religion and belief are one thing; spirituality is another. So anyone can walk to open up individual spirituality. The 88 is a great pilgrimage trail, tough and designed very well over 1200 years, a glimpse of one life cycle. In contrast, I felt that Kumanokodo is after life. You walk through the calm, beautiful Kii Peninsula’s nature, and there is no clear starting point and end.

歩くのは昨日までとしていたので少しゆっくりめな始まり。宿をさっさと出なかったのが原因で電車を逃す、時間があるので街を少し見てみる事にしたが駅前の商店街はとても静かだ。

もし同じ様なルートで那智山から次の日に新宮に電車で行こうと考えているなら、勝浦に一泊するよりも那智山を訪れたその日のうちに新宮まで行く事をお勧めする。次の日の朝に荷物を宿に置いて熊野速玉大社行って来れる。

車窓から海を眺めていると伊勢路を歩くのも良さそうだ。新宮で降りて神社に向かう、閑散とした町でも交通量は多い、歩道はほとんどなく木もないので汗ばんで喉が乾く。少しして平行に屋根付きの商店街があることに気づいた。観光地として古い建物が無いとやはり魅力と価値は下がってしまう。地方自治体は新たな開発、再開発よりも景観保存を重要視すべきだ、景観、外観また内観、素材を保ちつつモダナイズする事もできるはずだ、魅力がないところに観光客はあまり長居はしない。

神社の後に古い建物の鰻屋を見つけた、煙が出てい美味そうな匂いに誘われて少し早く高めの昼にすることにした。注文を待っている間に次から次と客が入り小さな店はすぐにいっぱいになった、ちょうど待ちもせず店に入れたのは運が良かった、一人でテーブルを占有してしまったからか店員はあまりいい気がしなかったのだろうか。隣に座った大きめの二人、この次はラーメンかうどんかと話している間に鰻重がミルミルと飲み込まれていく。テーブルに置かれた鍵から明らかに車で旅している事がわかる、歩いている時、また自転車に乗っている時は当然普段よりエネルギーを使うのでよく食べるが、彼らは明らかに十二分に摂取している様に見える。食べ過ぎたからだから電気を発電し車のバッテリーをチャージする方法を誰か見つけるべきだと思った。私は日本円をエネルギーに交換したのでまた駅まで歩くことにした。

予定では伊勢まで電車、そこらか夜行バスで東京と思っていた、地図で見ると一本で行けそうだったが2回ほど乗り換えなければならなかった。一回めは紀伊長島、人気のあまり無い駅で駅長が話しかけてきた、杖を見て歩いているとわかったらしい、彼はトレイルランニングを以前にしていたらしい、伊勢路は綺麗な石畳が結構残っているとのこと、頭の中で結構足や膝に来てつらそうだと思いながら、そうですか次回は挑戦してみたいですと言う。 そして次に多岐で乗り換え、伊勢に着く頃には暗くなっていた。

トレッキング、ハイキングなどそれまであまり興味を持たなかった、嫌いという事ではなかったが。突然なぜか四国八十八を行ってみようと思った。その後に熊野古道に行かなければと思った。巡礼の旅はやはり宗教的と考えると思う人が多いし、宗教と密接に関係している。私は宗教、信仰と精神性は違ったものだと思う。だから誰もが宗教などに関係なく歩き精神性開くことに挑戦できると思う。四国八十八は、きつく、1200年の間うまくデザインされた道、人生の一周を少し垣間見る事ができたようだ、熊野古道はあの世を垣間見れるのかもしれない長閑な紀伊半島の自然を歩く、明確な始まりも終わりもない。

熊野古道大雲取越 Kumanokodo Ogumotorigoe Day 5

Thursday, the 7th of October 2021. 

Kumanokodo

It had rained earlier, and a patch of blue sky appeared with the morning sunlight, and mountains were exhaling mist.

Just 500 meters from the accommodation, steep stairs suddenly appeared at the side of the road. There was always an invisible border or barrier between the regular tar road and the trail. With one deep breath and a firm poke of my stick into the ground, I crossed the border. Endless green stairs followed, one after another, gradually leading into the clouds. It was quiet, the only sound I could hear, was movement of myself. I felt that I was inhaling the fog, and my body was perspiring, making the fog even thicker. There were several rest areas, but I did not take a break as the benches were either damp or in poor condition, so I continued walking. I lost track of my altitude and sense of time until I reached the viewpoint, Funamijyaya. It must offer a magnificent view of the sea on clear, sunny days, but all I could see were clouds. The bench there was also in bad condition, therefore I did not stop for a break either. Afterward, the trail descended, and while I typically descend quickly on trails, stairs are a different story. Descending stairs is quite challenging for my feet, so I tried to walk alongside them as much as possible.

The trail eventually merged with a road and entered a large park with a spacious car park. There were hardly any people around, I finally decided to take a lunch break as I could see decent benches there. After lunch, I walked through the park and re-entered the trail briefly before reaching Nachi. Whenever I hear the name “Nachi” and see the symbol of a Buddhist temple, my inner childish dark side conjures images of Dr. Strangelove, Peter Sellers. The iconic three-storied pagoda and Nachi Falls came into view. Clouds were moving swiftly on the mountain above, and I was walking beyond those mountains. Thankfully, I didn’t get lost or end up on the other side of the waterfall.

At Kumano Nachi Taisha, I saw a Miko dance. Miko are female workers for the shrine, and I can not quite describe those music and dance whether it could call it rhythm, speed, or slowness, it is unique tempo. That is a ritual they perform at specific times of the day. However, I rarely have the opportunity to witness these dance, which is intended for the gods and the otherworldly.

After spending some time on a bench in the shrine, I decided to walk to Katsuura. I didn’t have a clear plan for what I was going to do, I had contemplated taking a train from Katsuura to the Shingu area, perhaps even having bit of splash at the beach, but I wasn’t sure if I’d make it in time for the infrequent trains. I could have taken a bus since it was no longer a trail but simply a road. However, having become accustomed to walking, I didn’t feel like checking the bus schedule and waiting. Therefore, I made the choice to spend the night Katsuura.

Kumanokodo Ogumotorigoe.  27.08km Katsuura

雨が降っていた様だ。雲の切れ目から青空が見え朝日が入る。山々は霧を噴き出していた。宿から500mぐらいの所で道の脇から壁の様な緑の階段が現れる。道路と山道には目に見えない境界がある様に感じる、深く呼吸し、杖で押し境界を超えて終わりがない様な階段を雲に向かって登り始めた。辺りは静かでうるさいのは自分自身の動く音。霧を呼吸し体から汗となって周りの霧をさらに濃くしてる様に感じた。いくつか休憩できるところがあったが、どこも湿っていたりベンチの状態が良くなかったのでそのまま歩き続けた。時間の経過と、どのくらいの高さのところを歩いているのか分からなくなる、船見茶屋跡に辿り着き景色が広がる、晴れていればその先には海が見えるはずだが、見えるのは雲。そこからは下り、山道の下りは得意だが、階段は別だ、なるべく階段の脇を歩く、熊野古道は世界遺産となっていて保全の観点からはよくないかもしれないが、歩いてみると階段は人間の脚には合っていない。山道から抜けると公園の大きな駐車場に出る、ほとんど人はいない、そこでやっと昼にすることにした。

食事して、公園を少し行くとまた森に入るがすぐに那智に出る。那智と寺のマークを見るとついドクターストレインジラブのピーターセラーズが思い浮かんで一人でこっそり笑ってしまう。象徴的な朱色の三重塔と那智の滝が目の前に現れる。雲は山上を速く流れている、丁度自分が歩いていた辺りだろうか、もし道を間違ってあの滝上に出なくてよかったななど考えてしまう。

熊野那智大社で巫女が雅楽で踊るのを観る、毎日決まった時間に行っていることなのだろうが、そう普段見る事がないのでどこかに座りたかったがそのまま見ていた。リズムといのとは違い不思議なテンポだ。鈴の音が神と彼方の世界に向かっているようだ。

それから少しの間ベンチに座り考えた、勝浦から電車で新宮に行く事もできなくもない、海に入る事も可能かもしれないが、電車の時間に間に合わないかもしれない、またバスの時間を調べて待つのもなんとなく面倒に感じ、勝浦まで歩いて一泊することにした。

Katsuura
View from the room where I stayed in Katsuura

熊野古道小雲取越 Kumanokodo kogumotorigoe Day 4

Wednesday, the 6th of October 2021

kumanokodo Yunomine onsen

Breakfast was rice porridge and pickles. As soon as I left the hostel and stepped onto the street, I was greeted by a mystical sight. The steam rising from the hot spring river merged with the morning mist from the mountains, creating an enchanting atmosphere.

Opting for a shortcut from Yunomine Onsen to Kokumotorigoe Pass via Kawayu Onsen, instead of going back to Hongu area via Dainichigoe. I found the Kawayu area to be even more mystical. Hot spring water gushed from the white gravel in the river. The clear, blue-green water looked rather cold but it is warm ish.

I reached a larger road, which was part of the Kumanokodo Kokumotorigoe. Shortly after, there should be an entrance to the old mountain pass. I was on the lookout for a shop to purchase lunch before getting into the forest. Unfortunately, there weren’t many stores around. There was a convenience store, but it had closed down. I thought I might have to go back towards to Hongu area to find food. Fortunately, there was a very small grocery store just across the street, and they also sold Bento. Fully prepared to enter the mountains, or so I thought, I missed the entrance to the pass. It turned out to be a narrow stairs in between houses. Instead, I followed the road along the river, which eventually ended in a residential area. Spotting a lady, I had asked if I was on the right path. She told me I had taken a wrong turn, and while there was a pass to Kogumotorigoe from there, it was seldom used and overgrown with grass, making it less than ideal for walking. She kindly offered me some steamed sweet potatoes.

kogumotorigoe

pon returning to the correct pass entrance, I walked to the summit in one go without break. The weather was pleasant, with clear skies and dry conditions. As I neared the peak of Toge, I looked for a spot to have my lunch, even though the map indicated no designated seating areas. Just after the peak of Toge, I discovered a spot with a breathtaking vista, with a kind of place I can sit on. About halfway through my Bento, I suddenly heard a loud, deep buzzing sound and saw a giant hornet right in front of me. It was my first encounter with one of these creatures. I remained still until it flew a short distance away, then quickly packed up my meal and vacated the area. Some 20 minutes or so later, I came across a table and benches and decided to stop and finish my Bento. Another person was also taking a break there, he had a traditional umbrella hat. When I walked 88, I had worn a similar hat, but it was very cheap one. These old school hats are not only tradition for the pilgrimage but in general. They provide excellent protection from both the sun and rain, as they do not directly touch the head, allowing for better ventilation. Their only drawback is their vulnerability to strong winds. Apparently, his hat was made in Kiso, and there are only a few artisans producing them. I would like to get one if I ever go on another trail walk. He asked me if I had completed the 88 pilgrimage, noticing my walking stick. He turned out to be an occasional professional guide for Kumanokodo.

kumanokodo kogumotorigoe

After the break, the trail descended rather steeply, which I quite enjoyed as I can go down faster almost like skiing as long as there are no stairs. By 3 o’clock, I arrived at Koguchi, where I would spend the night. The accommodation was rather unique, the building was a school before. The room I stayed was quite spacious as it was a class room, but due to its large windows facing west, the afternoon sun hit directly. For some reason, I can’t recall if the air conditioning was unavailable or not free of charge, so I had to leave the windows and door open for a considerable time. Dinner turned out to be quite an interesting experience as well. There were several guests, all of whom seemed to be pilgrims. We all sat in rows, much like in a classroom. Perhaps it was due to the ongoing pandemic, but no one engaged in conversation. Instead, we all faced one side of the room and silently enjoyed our meals.

Kumanokodo Kogumotorigoe.  20.27km Koguchi

朝食は粥と漬物。ホステルを出て道に出ると幻想的な光景を見た。温泉の川からの湯気と山からの霧が朝日の中で混ざり合っていた。大日越えで本宮に戻らず川湯温泉経由で小雲取越に向かうことにした。川湯温泉も非常に幻想的な景色だった、青い川沿いの白い砂利から温泉が湧き出ているようで、湯気が朝日に照らされていた。

国道に出る、本宮からの小雲取越の一部、すぐその先で山道に入るはずで、その前にどこかで昼を買える所はないかと探す。閉鎖されていたコンビニが一軒、もしかしたら本宮まで戻らなければないかと思ったら斜向かいに商店が一軒営業中、なかなか品揃え良く弁当も売っていた。これで峠越えの準備ができたと思っていたら地図を読みちがい、その先の家の間にある細い階段、登り口を見過ごして川沿いの道を進んで行ってしまいどん詰まりの住宅地、見かけた女性に尋ねたら通じている道があるみたいだが誰も使わないから草が生い茂っておそらく通れないとの事、蒸したサツマ芋をもらう。

引き返して、峠の頂上まで一気に登る。天気は湿度も少なく気持ちのいい晴れ、頂上付近で何処が昼にできる様なところはないかと探す、地図で見ると椅子がある様なところは見当たらない。少し行ったところで素晴らしい眺望に出てくる、ちょうど山側に腰掛けられるので弁当を食べることにした。突然大きな低音がすると目の前に大スズメバチ、初めて見た。静かにしていて少し離れたところを飛び始めたところで弁当をゆっくり片付けて待つ、隙をみて撤収、そこら20分ぐらい先だっただろうか、休憩所を見つけた残りの弁当を食べることとした。一人先に休んでいる人がいた、彼はとても良さそうな傘を持っていた。自身も88ヶ所では安いのを被っていたが、日差しでも雨でも素晴らしく、頭に密着していないから通気性がいい。問題は風の時だけだ。彼は木曽で手に入れたらしい、今は作れる人はあまりいないとのこと。もしまたこの様な歩き旅をする事があれば手に入れたいと思う。彼は私が四国88に行ったかと尋ねてきた、杖からわかったらしい。ただの棒で収納に困るが、よくある伸縮する山歩き用の杖とは比べ物にならないくらい頼れる。彼は熊野古道のガイドをしているらしい。

休憩の後は下り。階段が無ければ速度が乗ってスキーの様に降りていけるので非常に好きだ。3時ぐらいに小口に到着。宿は昔学校だった建物、部屋は元教室なだけあって広い、窓から西日が入って暑かった、エアコンが壊れていたか、有料だったか今となっては覚えていないが、入り口のドアと窓をしばらく全開。夕食もまた面白い経験、客は何人かいた、全て熊野古道を歩いている者達だと思うが、教室の様に一方向を向いて座り誰一人として話をしない。疫病ということでの措置かもしれないが。

熊野古道小辺路 Kumanokodo kohechi Day 3

On Tuesday, the 5th of October 2021, I found myself struggling to get a good night’s sleep, perhaps due to either too much food or simply the fatigue accumulated from the previous days. My hand still throbbed and swollen from that horsefly bite.

Totsukawa onsen kumanokodo

Just before sunrise, I opened a window, and I saw an astonishing sight, I thought it is quite artificial. It resembled the vibrant images in some Asian restaurant’s walls, or the overly saturated photo prints on the staircase of Yodobashi Camera. Nevertheless, the tranquillity and the cool moisture in the air gave a sense of depth upon this landscape which I felt that almost falling into. I have enjoyed the view for while but when the sun light hit the magic dissolved. There were some time till breakfast so I had tried to sleep little bit more. 

Totsukawa onsen morning bus stops at a busstop

My departure was later than my usual schedule, I walked out of this quiet village, and crossed the red bridge which I saw from the window, and returning to the trail, then I began climbing towards Hatenashi Toge. It was sunny and steamy when I walked through the tiny village, which has an iconic view of Kohechi. I wasn’t particularly intrigued by the view, I just wanted to enter the forest pass to escape from the heat.

For the past two days, I didn’t encounter many people on the trail. However, as I got closer to Kumano shrine, I saw more people. I reached the peak in about two hours from the starting point, a bit too early for lunch, so I pressed on. After coming down from the Toge, I arrived at the river that I had seen from the summit. I walked along its banks, looking at the murky yet vivid blue water, wondering why it is so vivid, water should not be so deep, almost as if someone had spilled paint.

I reached a parking area “Michinoeki”, offering not only a “park view” with cars and motorcycles but also a river view. There were seating areas, toilets, and many vending machines, as is often the case. It was the perfect time for a bento lunch. After lunch, I walked on the tarmac for a while, only to realise that I had missed the right turn to rejoin the trail. Backtracking was always painful, especially on foot. It was merge point with the “Nakahechi,” the most common route. From there, the trail changed, looks like more “Kumanokodo,” a gentle downhill path through cedars and ferns leading to Kumano Shrine.

The old shrine, once stood on an island in the river, had been washed away in a flood long time ago. Now, only the gate remained, it is new, and metal. It was still quite impressive, especially after several days of walking to reach this point. I couldn’t spend too much time at the shrine, also I didn’t want to walk around too much, as I had to walk the “Dainichigoe” Pass which is not long, and the shortest route to reach Yunomineonsen, where I had booked a hostel. Glancing at the sun, and I was thinking how much time I have, once the sun goes down, it will be difficult to see the ground in the forest so I was rushing. When I got to the peak which is not high but I was greeted by the sunlight filtering through the trees. I guesstimated that I had about 15 minutes left, and when I got out from the trail in to someone’s back of hose, dusk was settling in.

The hostel featured an outdoor onsen bath, no view but really nice. Yunomineonsen area lacked nearby restaurants, so I bought small curry from the reception. It was a lighter dinner compared to the  previous two nights. It was just 3 days, but I felt that I had walked for a week or so.

Kumanokodo Kohechi Section 4 & Dainichigoe.  Approx 20km Yunomine Onsen

日の出前に目が覚める、疲労か過食かよく眠れなかった。アブに刺された手は腫れていて痛む。

窓を開けるとまるで絵の様な景色だ、アジアンレストランにかかっている様な、その彩度はヨドバシカメラの階段に掛けてあるプリントみたいに鮮やかだ。静寂と冷えた朝の湿度が妙に深い落ちていきそうな奥行きを与え、しばし眺めていた。朝日が直接当たると魔法は溶けていく。朝食まで時間があるのでもう少し寝る事にした。

出発はいつもよりも遅め。静かな村を出て窓から見た赤い橋を渡り古道に入り果無峠を登る。天気も良く湿度も上がる、写真で見る小辺路の石碑のところに来た、時間帯のせいだろうかそれ程印象的では無かった、それよりも早く涼しい森の中へと先へ進む。

二日間歩いている時はほとんど人を見かけなかったが熊野本宮に近づくにつれ人を見かける様になった。宿を出てから2時間ほどで峠を越える、昼にはまだ早いので下り川に出る、頂上付近から見えたところだろうか。川沿いを歩きながらあまり深そうでもない川なのにどうしてこんなにも青いのだろうかと思い進む。

道の駅に着く駐車場だけでなく川も眺められトイレもありテーブルもあり当然の用にいくつもの自販機。昼にする。そこから先も舗装の道を行くのだが途中曲がり角をすっかり見過ごし引き返すのは歩きでは一番きつい事である。ちょうど中辺路と合流する地点でそこからは熊野古道らしくなる、シダと杉の間を心地よく熊野本宮に向かって緩やかに降りていく。

中洲に元々あった神社は大水で昔になくなったらしい、今は金属の新しい鳥居が立っているだけ。ただやはり見応えある、特に歩いてここに到着すると。色々見歩くと時間も体力も使ってしまう、宿は湯ノ峰温泉のホステルに取ったので大日越、本宮から湯ノ峰への最短で丘を越えていく道だ、太陽を見てあとどれぐらい時間があるのか考える、上りから下りに差し掛かるあたりで木々の間から夕日が差し込む。あと15分くらいだろうか、丁度森から民家の裏に出る頃には夜の帳が下りてきた。

ホステルは小さいながらも温泉露天風呂があり休まる。湯ノ峰温泉付近は旅館のみなのだろう食事ができる所は無いので受付でカレーを買って食べる、今までの二晩とは違い軽い夕食。三日目だがすでに一週間くらい旅をしている様な気がする。

熊野古道小辺路 Kumanokodo kohechi Day 2

I got up at 5:30, had breakfast, and got lunch Onigiris from the Minshuku. Then I began my day just after 6. The moment of decision making. For the past couple of days, I was thinking whether I should walk two sections, as the second section of Kohechi is only 15km but with a 1300m Toge/mountain pass. The 3rd section is only 20km, but another 1000m Toge. I got up early, my legs felt good, so I thought I could walk two sections all the way to Totsukawa Onsen.

mist moutains

The morning was slightly misty, I walked down along the river, and I looked up, mist were vanishing in the morning light. I crossed a bridge and got back into the forest, I started climbing up, my mind fell into concentration.

river

I was nearly at the top of the mountain when the pass was diverted due to a landslide. The diverted route was no longer the pass but rather a mountain ascent through the trees, marked by fluorescent pink tape. At some point, I couldn’t see the marker for quite some time. According to the map the diversion shouldn’t be that long. The trees weren’t that tall, so the peak couldn’t be that far. I saw a break in the trees and a sign for the peak, Obako Toge. At the top I stood still for a while, trying to cool off, looking at the vista which should have been there, but instead, clouds were flowing rapidly sideways. This was the first Toge, so I must keep moving.

I descended the mountain and came upon a rather quiet village, if I hadn’t planned to walk two sections, I might have stayed here. I had a short lunch break where there are space and public toilet. The sun was strong, and the temperature rose, my feet were also heating up. Time was running out, so I pressed on for another 1000m Toge, followed by a long descent to Totsukawa Onsen.

After crossing Miura Toge, I looked for a place to have a short break, but I couldn’t find a comfortable spot to sit. I passed ruins of houses and decided to have a sip of water and something to nibble. It wasn’t a particularly comfortable place, there are not much light and quite damp. So, I decided to keep walking while eating a banana. Then, all of a sudden, I experienced a shockingly sharp pain in my left hand, the hand holding the banana, which I dropped. I had to scream. I didn’t see any insects because it was rather dark. I walked very fast for a while, thinking it might have been a hornet, and wondered how far I was from the nearest road. At the same time, I got frustrated. By the time I reached the tarmac, I started to think it was a horsefly, although I got swell but it is not getting worse. Then I got even more up set. I had dropped my banana, and I hadn’t managed to kill the horsefly.

The normal road was rather dull. I tried to walk as straight as I could to shorten the distances. By the time I reached Totsukawa Onsen, it was just getting dark, and I was exhausted. I entered the Minshuku, and a lady asked me to fill out a form and if I came by car. I said I got here on foot, she seemed not to quite understand, which struck me as somewhat contradictory given the name of the accommodation, which means ‘Practitioner’ or ‘pilgrim’s onsen of the Sun.’

I had a good room with amazing view, which I’ll show in the next blog post. From the onsen/bath, you could also see the same wonderful view. The only problem with that accommodation was the many stairs for walkers. It shouldn’t have been much of an issue if I had been walking over 30km every day, as I did on the 88, but this was only my second day, and my first 35km. The last thing I wanted to do was go up and down the stairs in tiny vinyl  slippery slippers. Dinner was once again botan nabe and fish from the river, along with many other dishes. It was wonderful, but there was far too much food. I managed to eat it all, but this could be a problem as it might hinder my sleep. My body would use a lot of energy to digest rather than recover from fatigue. After the meal, I went straight to the futon.

Kumanokodo Kohechi Section 2&3.  35.78km Taiyo no yu 

5時半起床、朝食をとり昼用のおにぎりをもらって6時過ぎに出発。この日は一区間か二区間にするか決めかねていた。内心はもう決まっていたのだが、何かあって歩けない事もなくはないので距離の決定はその日の朝。

第二区間は15kmほどしかないが1300mの峠越え、第三区間は20kmでもう一つの1000m峠越え。朝早く起きて足の調子もいいので十津川温泉まで歩く事に決めた。朝霧が朝日の中で消えていくのを見上げながら、川沿いの道を下る。橋を越えたら森の中へ戻り登り始める、意識は集中の中へと落ちていく。

頂上付近で道は崖崩れのため迂回、道といってもただの山、ピンクのテープで木に印がついているだけだ、進んでいるうちに印が見えない、地図ではそれほど距離がある様には見えない、木はそれほど高くないので頂上までは遠くないはずだった。木々が開け、伯母子峠頂上の標識が見えた。眺望の代わりに横に流れる雲を眺めてしばし体を冷ます。これが最初の峠で、次に向かう。

山から降りて小さな集落に入る、一区間だけならここで一泊だ、よく整備された公衆トイレの前の広場で昼食、気温はだいぶ上がった、足も暑い。時間が経つ、次の峠を越えれば後は十津川温泉まで下り。三浦峠を超えてから一休みできるところを探していたがなかなか適当なところが無い、出店跡だっただろうか、広場だが上は木が生い茂り湿度があり感じのいいところでは無かったので水を飲んでバナナを食べながら先を行く事にした。その後突然バナナを持っていた左手に激しく刺された様な痛み、思わず叫ぶ。薄暗かったからかどんな虫か全く見えなかった。早足で歩きスズメバチだった可能性はあるのか考え、一般の道からの距離はどのくらいかと考え始めた。舗装の道に出る頃にはハレと痛みの程度から恐らくアブだったのではと思う、そうすると余計に思わずバナナを落として、その虫を殺さなかったことに怒りを覚えた。

普通の道はただひたすらつまらない。なるべく真っ直ぐに歩き距離を縮めようとする。十津川温泉に着く頃には暗くなり始めていてだいぶ疲労感もあった。宿に着くと宿泊者情報を記入してくれと紙を渡され、車で来たかと尋ねられた、歩きだというと見慣れないといった表情、行者民宿という名前とは違いほとんどの客は車なのだろう。

素晴らしい眺めの部屋だった、同じ景色は露天風呂からも見る事ができる。眺望は次のブログで掲載しよう。この宿の問題は階段が多いことだ、毎日30km以上歩いていれば脚もできて問題無いだろうが、二日目で初の30km超えの足の裏が痛い状態で滑りそうなスリッパで階段を登ったり降りたりするのはできれば避けたい。

この晩も料理は赤い牡丹鍋、そして地魚と他沢山、なんとか全て食べたが、消化に力を使うと身体が回復しないかも、だが食後はもうすぐ布団へ、眠りに落ちる。

熊野古道小辺路 Kumanokodo kohechi Day 1

It took me a while to process the images, even though raw data never matures inside of a hard drive. 

On Sunday, the 3rd of October 2021, I have started Kumanokodo from Mt. Koya. The reason for starting from there was simple, I had completed my 88 pilgrimage there, and it is the easiest access from Tokyo via a night bus to Namba Osaka, arriving at 6:20 am. From there, I took a train to Mt. Koya. I am a typical Tokyo village people, beyond the area where I live in Tokyo, my knowledge of Japan was quite limited, therefore Osaka is definitely foreign to me, finding a train to Mt Koya is challenge,  even though this was second time.

The entrance to Kumano Kodo Kohechi wasn’t very conspicuous, there is a rather small sign. As I enter the pass, I swiftly shifted into walking mode, aiming to maintain a faster pace. While Kohechi is reputedly the most challenging of the three major routes to Kumano, it may not be so tough for someone who has completed the 88 pilgrimage. After all, each section is less than 20 km. I immediately sensed a difference compared to the 88. The pass exuded a positive energy, not only because of the weather or the soft earth underfoot, but perhaps due to its unique location.

熊野古道 小辺路 Kumanokodo landscape path river bridge

During my walk, I often felt that someone was walking behind me, while my mind always strides a few meters ahead. Could the person behind me be another version of myself from a slightly different timeline? Also I often felt that something is hiding and watching at the next corner, perhaps and hopefully charming little spirits?

熊野古道 小辺路 Kumanokodo landscape path mountains pine trees

Smooth walk in the morning, predominantly through well maintained forests. Towards to noon the temperature got higher, I saw only one person walking in the opposite direction, where  just before the pass intersected with a road. Then after I had quick lunch break where there were three off road motorcyclists having a break. They seemed well prepared, with mesquite repellent incense. Fortunately, I had not have issues with bugs during my 88 journey, perhaps it was the season.

熊野古道 小辺路 Kumanokodo road mountains pine trees

I reached an inn / Minshuku just after15. Just before reaching the inn, I noticed a dog leashed to a traditional Japanese dog house, barking rather fiercely. Then I saw two more dogs leashed to dog houses next to the inn, they were also barking loudly. After a refreshing bath, I hung my hand washed, damp clothes by the window to dry in the strong westerly afternoon sun.

The innkeeper called me over, that dinner was ready. I was the only guest that night. The meal served was “Botan Nabe,” a dish I had never tasted before. It was typical of the region, a hot pot featuring wild boar and various vegetables. The innkeeper sat beside me while I was having the meal. He was quite talkative, sharing that he is also a hunter. The three dogs  are his hunting dogs, the most aggressive one stays bit far from Inn which is the first one I saw. In Nara, hunting deer is prohibited, so they predominantly hunt wild boar. Usually, he hunts in a group, the dogs chase the boars towards to hunters range. If he can not join the group for any reasons, he let two dogs to join but not the most aggressive one, it is untameable for other people apparently.  He was sort of complaining how strict the regulation and expensive to keep renewing his licenses.

He mentioned that they have to meticulously record the number of bullets they own and used.  He also mentioned that it is not so profitable to sell meat in the market. They have to follow specific procedures and deliver the prey within the designated time to the licensed meat treatment centre.

18 km for the very first day, on top of not sleeping well on the night bus, I felt tired. So, I had to say thank you and good night to the very talkative owner of the inn, and then I went straight to my futon.

Kumanokodo Kohechi Section 1.  18.44 km Minsyuku kawarabi

熊野古道 小辺路 Kumanokodo landscape vista mountains pine trees

このブログを書くのにだいぶ時間が経ってしまった。

2021年10月3日、日曜日、熊野古道を高野山から始める。四国八十八を高野山で終わりにしたのと東京から最も行きやすいという単純な理由からでもあった。

夜行バスで大阪難波6時20分到着、高野山行きの電車に乗り換える。私は典型的な東京の田舎者なので普段の生活圏以外の東京、日本をあまり知らない、大阪ともなるとまさに外国である。2回目であるのにもかかわらず高野山に行く電車は何処かと彷徨う。

熊野古道小辺路の入り口は小さな標識があるだけでひっそりとしていて目立たない。道に入ると歩くモードに切り替わる、なるべく速いペースを保とうと試みる。

小辺路は熊野古道の中では一番険しいとされるが、八十八を歩いた者ならば、それぞれの区間は20km以下なのでそれ程の事ではない。歩いてすぐに八十八とは違った明るい気を感じる。季節や土の柔らかさだけではなくその土地柄かも知れない。

歩いていると時々自分の後ろに気配を感じる、誰かが歩いているような、また自分の意識は少し先を行っているような、そうすると後ろにいるのはまた違った時間軸の私自身なのであろうか。そして時々だが進む先の角の向こうに何かがこちらを見ている様な。

午前中は快速、ほとんどがとてもよく整備された林道、正午ごろになると温度が上がってくる。道中でったのは対向者一人のみ、路が道路と交差する辺りだった。

その先でちょっと昼休憩、丁度3人のオフロードライダーも休憩していた、彼らは用意周到に蚊取り線香など持っていた。今まで虫のことなどあまり気にも留めなかったが。

15時過ぎに民宿に到着、差し掛かる前に犬小屋に繋がれた犬が激しく吠える。また民宿の脇にも二匹それぞれ犬小屋に繋がれて激しく吠える。風呂をもらう、洗った洗濯物を西日の入る窓に干す。

民宿の主に食事の準備ができたと呼ばれ食堂へ、その日の客は私一人の様だった、食事は牡丹鍋、初めて食べた。宿の主は私が食事をしている間近くの席に座り色々と話す。奈良県では鹿を獲れないので猪が主な獲物と、彼は狩人で外の三匹の犬は彼の猟犬であった、狩に出る時は仲間と行くらしい、犬が猪を狩人の射程内に追い出すとのことだ。何かの事情で彼が参加できない時は犬だけ出すらしいいが、最初に見た一匹はとても気性が荒く他人には手に負えないとの事、家から、また道から少し離れたところに繋がれていたのもそれが理由らしい。狩の免許を更新するのは七面倒臭いらしい、銃管理から弾の数まで事細かに報告しないといけないが、獲物もそれ程は高値で売れないとの事、仕留めてからの処理そして公認の処理場に時間内に持ち込まないといけないという事らしい。

初日の18kmの歩きと、夜行バスでそれ程よく眠れなかったこともあり食事を終わりにして、すぐに布団に入り眠りについた。