It took me a while to process the images, even though raw data never matures inside of a hard drive.
On Sunday, the 3rd of October 2021, I have started Kumanokodo from Mt. Koya. The reason for starting from there was simple, I had completed my 88 pilgrimage there, and it is the easiest access from Tokyo via a night bus to Namba Osaka, arriving at 6:20 am. From there, I took a train to Mt. Koya. I am a typical Tokyo village people, beyond the area where I live in Tokyo, my knowledge of Japan was quite limited, therefore Osaka is definitely foreign to me, finding a train to Mt Koya is challenge, even though this was second time.
The entrance to Kumano Kodo Kohechi wasn’t very conspicuous, there is a rather small sign. As I enter the pass, I swiftly shifted into walking mode, aiming to maintain a faster pace. While Kohechi is reputedly the most challenging of the three major routes to Kumano, it may not be so tough for someone who has completed the 88 pilgrimage. After all, each section is less than 20 km. I immediately sensed a difference compared to the 88. The pass exuded a positive energy, not only because of the weather or the soft earth underfoot, but perhaps due to its unique location.
During my walk, I often felt that someone was walking behind me, while my mind always strides a few meters ahead. Could the person behind me be another version of myself from a slightly different timeline? Also I often felt that something is hiding and watching at the next corner, perhaps and hopefully charming little spirits?
Smooth walk in the morning, predominantly through well maintained forests. Towards to noon the temperature got higher, I saw only one person walking in the opposite direction, where just before the pass intersected with a road. Then after I had quick lunch break where there were three off road motorcyclists having a break. They seemed well prepared, with mesquite repellent incense. Fortunately, I had not have issues with bugs during my 88 journey, perhaps it was the season.
I reached an inn / Minshuku just after15. Just before reaching the inn, I noticed a dog leashed to a traditional Japanese dog house, barking rather fiercely. Then I saw two more dogs leashed to dog houses next to the inn, they were also barking loudly. After a refreshing bath, I hung my hand washed, damp clothes by the window to dry in the strong westerly afternoon sun.
The innkeeper called me over, that dinner was ready. I was the only guest that night. The meal served was “Botan Nabe,” a dish I had never tasted before. It was typical of the region, a hot pot featuring wild boar and various vegetables. The innkeeper sat beside me while I was having the meal. He was quite talkative, sharing that he is also a hunter. The three dogs are his hunting dogs, the most aggressive one stays bit far from Inn which is the first one I saw. In Nara, hunting deer is prohibited, so they predominantly hunt wild boar. Usually, he hunts in a group, the dogs chase the boars towards to hunters range. If he can not join the group for any reasons, he let two dogs to join but not the most aggressive one, it is untameable for other people apparently. He was sort of complaining how strict the regulation and expensive to keep renewing his licenses.
He mentioned that they have to meticulously record the number of bullets they own and used. He also mentioned that it is not so profitable to sell meat in the market. They have to follow specific procedures and deliver the prey within the designated time to the licensed meat treatment centre.
18 km for the very first day, on top of not sleeping well on the night bus, I felt tired. So, I had to say thank you and good night to the very talkative owner of the inn, and then I went straight to my futon.
Kumanokodo Kohechi Section 1. 18.44 km Minsyuku kawarabi
このブログを書くのにだいぶ時間が経ってしまった。
2021年10月3日、日曜日、熊野古道を高野山から始める。四国八十八を高野山で終わりにしたのと東京から最も行きやすいという単純な理由からでもあった。
夜行バスで大阪難波6時20分到着、高野山行きの電車に乗り換える。私は典型的な東京の田舎者なので普段の生活圏以外の東京、日本をあまり知らない、大阪ともなるとまさに外国である。2回目であるのにもかかわらず高野山に行く電車は何処かと彷徨う。
熊野古道小辺路の入り口は小さな標識があるだけでひっそりとしていて目立たない。道に入ると歩くモードに切り替わる、なるべく速いペースを保とうと試みる。
小辺路は熊野古道の中では一番険しいとされるが、八十八を歩いた者ならば、それぞれの区間は20km以下なのでそれ程の事ではない。歩いてすぐに八十八とは違った明るい気を感じる。季節や土の柔らかさだけではなくその土地柄かも知れない。
歩いていると時々自分の後ろに気配を感じる、誰かが歩いているような、また自分の意識は少し先を行っているような、そうすると後ろにいるのはまた違った時間軸の私自身なのであろうか。そして時々だが進む先の角の向こうに何かがこちらを見ている様な。
午前中は快速、ほとんどがとてもよく整備された林道、正午ごろになると温度が上がってくる。道中でったのは対向者一人のみ、路が道路と交差する辺りだった。
その先でちょっと昼休憩、丁度3人のオフロードライダーも休憩していた、彼らは用意周到に蚊取り線香など持っていた。今まで虫のことなどあまり気にも留めなかったが。
15時過ぎに民宿に到着、差し掛かる前に犬小屋に繋がれた犬が激しく吠える。また民宿の脇にも二匹それぞれ犬小屋に繋がれて激しく吠える。風呂をもらう、洗った洗濯物を西日の入る窓に干す。
民宿の主に食事の準備ができたと呼ばれ食堂へ、その日の客は私一人の様だった、食事は牡丹鍋、初めて食べた。宿の主は私が食事をしている間近くの席に座り色々と話す。奈良県では鹿を獲れないので猪が主な獲物と、彼は狩人で外の三匹の犬は彼の猟犬であった、狩に出る時は仲間と行くらしい、犬が猪を狩人の射程内に追い出すとのことだ。何かの事情で彼が参加できない時は犬だけ出すらしいいが、最初に見た一匹はとても気性が荒く他人には手に負えないとの事、家から、また道から少し離れたところに繋がれていたのもそれが理由らしい。狩の免許を更新するのは七面倒臭いらしい、銃管理から弾の数まで事細かに報告しないといけないが、獲物もそれ程は高値で売れないとの事、仕留めてからの処理そして公認の処理場に時間内に持ち込まないといけないという事らしい。
初日の18kmの歩きと、夜行バスでそれ程よく眠れなかったこともあり食事を終わりにして、すぐに布団に入り眠りについた。
