Getting up with sunrise, going back and hit the 36th Temple before breakfast.
Along the very clean Yokonami Skyline, almost no traffic and no body, it feels endless along the cliff, some how very sentimental feeling, and some point I really wanted listen some music, not much thoughts but grabbed by those weird sad feeling, looking at hazy horizon.Endless cliff road, shortly came to the end, seeing very flat Uranouchi bay on right side, heading into inland.
I was looking for a place to have a break, then suddenly a cement factory standing behind the small rice field.
Sky was getting grey and darker, I would better get hurry and reach to the accommodation.
Despite the fact, it is called “business hotel”,  it is more like an apartment, small yet quite high rise for the footprint, typical of Japan.
It soon started rain, room was strong smell of tobacco, turning air condition was even worse. Out side there are high rise motorway and a pond with concrete wall.
I suddenly felt claustrophobic and miserable. I am not in the middle of big city, is this the curse of the cement factory? and fully plastic packaged Bento as a dinner, made my end of the day very very sad.

36 青龍寺



Swiftly walk to the ferry stop, it is almost straight line from the temple 32, but it feels long, longer than the map shows.
Quick snack before on bored, then very short ride to opposite side of the bay. It is warm sunny day, feels like having a nap.
Getting into Tosa city, while having slightly later lunch, I was calculating the speed and distance again and again. I was not sure if I manage to get to the 36th on time.
By the time when I get to the Usa-oohashi (it stands for big bridge) I recognised that I would not make it by 5pm. I decided to enjoy the sunset view.
I am sure that I did not reach to Greece, but small surprise when I get to the hotel, and beautiful end of the day.

32 禅師峰寺
33 雪蹊寺
34 種間寺
35 清瀧寺

素早く歩く。フェリー乗り場まで32番からはほぼまっすぐ、しかし地図で見るよりなぜか長い。束の間の乗船前に軽く食べ、あっという間に反対側。眠くなるような陽気の中、休まず歩き、土佐市で遅めの昼食。おそらく時間内に36番まで納経できないだろうと気づく。山を降り宇佐大橋に来る頃には諦め夕焼けを楽しむことにした。 ギリシャまで歩いていないことは確かだが、思いがけない一日の終わり。


Getting into Kochi city.
I realise existence of my self, and many other people who are around and not even aware or conscious about each other.
Not only Kochi but other cities in Shikoku feel slightly old, not just buildings, but some how the atmosphere feels like 20 or 30 yeas back, which gives space, and allowance for me to be there with the look of pilgrim. Anachronistic look of the hat but its wonderful in Rain and the sun.

28 大日寺
29 国分寺
30 善楽寺
31 竹林寺



Starting in rain, walking along the coast, warm strong wind blows sea water from left side.
Holding the hat and lean forward every time the splash comes._DSC1056

However the wind also blew the clouds away.
The sun is coming out, it burs the skin.DSC_0324

Unfortunately Rubbish is common sight along the pilgrimage road.
I started doubt about standard and double side of Japanese morality.
In the afternoon, I saw incredible amount of rubbish along the coast path, It was not only fishing stuff, but all sort of things from household, electric gadgets etc.
Does this come from poverty? as it costs lot to throw those rubbish legitimately, or poverty in their heart. Typically Japanese follows what other do, that is why there are incredible amount in some rather hidden places. In any cases this is malfunctions of our society and our mind. This is dark side and reality of Japan._DSC1057






Day after day, walking along the coast, boredom and exhaustion.
Humidity got higher and higher towards to the midday, then eventually pouring rain. It is another discomfort, actually life is full of discomforts. However once the body is filled with those discomforts, I forget all of that. Almost without thinking, I just walked forward. Suddenly encountering some scenes, emotions are released as a bag full of stuff are toned apart. It is something like mix of joy, happiness, and slight sadness.
As the body gets exhausted, my heart gets much more sensitive and moved.

27 神峯寺



Slow but Smooth day, along the Cape Muroto.
A day after 45km, hearing the sound of ocean whole night, my mind was fully recharged. On the other hand, my body was heavy as lead, decided to take it easy.
Climbing the mountain in snow, was already feel like long time ago, now the sun is always burning left side of me._DSC1055

When the body gets exhausted, all comes directly to mind.
Amazing feeling of stones and the waves, it takes the heat from my feet and the stones from its underneath. Ocean is incredibly powerful.DSC_0318

24  最御崎寺
25 津照寺
26 金剛頂寺




Very ver very long day. No temples until Cape Muroto, just walk, all day all the way along the coast.DSC_0304

I think it was before lunch, there was an old lady selling Oranges.
she asked me to come and have some oranges, then started pealing next to another, one kind to another kind, and asking me questions. Then she told me that I was not going to find any available accommodation to sleep that night, as there were already many other pilgrims had passed by earlier. She was like Yoda, telling me with cynical smile, to get ready to sleep out side, walk as further as I can.DSC_0306

DSC_0308Around 6pm I managed to get to the accommodation, 45km away from the starting point of the day.
After 40km was incredibly tough, I felt that distance was almost unchanged, as the scenery, just cliff on my right, and the sea on my left.


昼前ぐらいだったろうか、みかんを売っている老婆に座って食べていかないかと勧められる。矢継ぎ早に次から次へと品種の違うもの剥いてくれた。その日の宿はどこかと聞かれ、まだ決めていないと言うと。”そうか今日は腹くくって野宿だな。後戻りはできんから先に進むしかないな。” と笑って言われる。DSC_0311


Along the coast, beautiful calm sunny day. As the sun goes up, it gradually burns my skin. My Feet hurt, it almost feels like waking on hot stones.
1,200 years ago, this pilgrimage are shaped up by Kobodaishi, his previous name is Kukai 空海, means sky and sea. It is there right in front of me._DSC1032
DSC_0298Even before Kukai, there were apparently people who were training in this island, along the coast. For the energy coming from lost cities beyond ocean? or from that hanging power cables?
At every temples, I read Heart Sutra, or just skim as light speed some times.
The oldest sanskrit copy of Heart Sutra, apparently remains in Horyuji in Nara Japan.
The one I have with me, was translated in Chinese. Chinese letter placed according to the sound and meaning, and Japanese letter are put along, as Japanese are phonetic.
Kukai went to China and studied. However was he able to read Sanskrit? Actually I can not quite understand nor accept Chinese translation.
When I visited in Shanghai, I saw and tried Coca-Cola. Of course it was written in Chinese. However, because of its red and white stripes I could recognise it. But letters do not exactly sound like Coca-cola, even as a Japanese knowing some Chinese letters, it seems and sounds to me, more like Cacocaco…. How is it possible to imagine and understand from those translated letters, if you don’t know the actual Coca-cola.
It is like singing foreign songs without knowing meaning of lyrics. It may sound happy, but actually it might be sad song.
I think for the language it is very important to understand language itself, also cultural background. Some says for the Sutra, the sound is important. However if you do not understand the language what is the point of writing.
My English is not great. Nevertheless, I do understand and physically know what is good Fish & chips and English breakfast, therefore if I read them I can clearly imagine what it is. That is why Kukai never understood, as he never been to India, spoke Sanskrit, and never ate curry.
_DSC1039I was thinking such indifferent things endlessly while walking. By the time when get to the accommodation I was totally exhausted.
Once I sat in the room, reaching my backpack, which was leaning against opposite side of 9 square meters room, felt almost impossible.
Feeling of walking on Tatami, and evening wind from ocean going through my Yukata was almost taking my exhaustion out from my body.
I had dinner alone at a huge party room. Hijiki (type of sea weed) normally as a small side dish, suddenly became my main dish after a bite. Simply cooked, amazing texture and taste._DSC1045

23 薬王寺
鯖瀬 海山荘



Rain. 2 mountain crossings.
Wearing, and taking jackets off, or taking pictures, could be a moment. However this tiny stops make average walking speed 6km/h to 3 km/h. When I walk with other people, I realised how far they go while that tiny stop, and it is hard to recover the delay.
Glancing the view on side, photographing in my memory, walking ahead.
DSC_0279 Rain gets harder, and temperature gets colder. Fingers are numbed, difficult to ignite candles and incense sticks. While reading Heart sutra, sweat turned into ice cold.DSC_0281
After the 22nd temple, rain stopped, but dire strong wind. Heading to the Sea.

20-22  33km
由岐 橋本屋旅館




Leaving the city, along the high way, all the way, all morning. Step by step, my ankle hurts. Tiny angles, gaps of the asphalt were becoming big deal, Searching for flat parts, and looking for short cut even for millimetre. I was craving the small soft roads. Except bugs and snakes, nature is soft._DSC1029

18, 19  24km